Archive for the 'CAM' Category

NickelBot – Complete

The NickelBot is complete and it works great. The goal of the project was to create an easily portable machine that creates low cost items that could be given away at events like Maker Faires. I think it has completely achieved that goal. The nickels are purchased from Amazon and cost about $0.08 each.

Here is a video that explains the machine.


It is quite reliable and the cycle time is is just about right at 1-2 minutes per nickel. I think the engraving quality is quite good. I ran it at the Chicago Northside Maker Faire last weekend. It made about 60 nickels without any problems. Here are some of the nickels it made.


The NickelBot uses (2) NEMA14 stepper motors in a T-Bot configuration. These drive a single GT2 6mm belt. The linear bearings are (2) 6mm rods per axis with (1) LM6LUU per rod.

To handle the nickel loading and unloading, it uses a single micro hobby servo. This servo  connects via a 0.03″ brass wire to a clamp. The firmware has (3) positions hard coded for the servo for fully open, nickel support only and supported plus clamped.

All 3D printed parts are PLA printed on a Lulzbot TAZ6. The colors just represent the color that happened to be in the printer at the time.

The Laser Module

The laser module is a 3.5W peak, 450nm (blue) laser. It comes with a laser power supply that has a 12V power input and TTL laser control input. It also comes with a 12V 5A power supply. I bought it a few months ago from when it was on sale for about $70, but they are typically around $99.  I control the engraving power with a 5kHZ PWM from the microcontroller.


I used a PSoC5 development board as a plug in on a custom PCB.  I knew adding an additional, accurate PWM for the servo was going to be vastly easier on the PSoC5 vs. an Arduino.

This dev board has a built in programmer debugger that makes firmware development very easy. It is great to be able to set breakpoints and check values with the debugger. I have have a another blog post with more details on this here.


The firmware is a modified version of my PSoC5 Grbl port. The only modification needed was the code to handle the clamp servo. Rather than adding special gcodes for the clamp, I simply re-coded the M7,M8 and M9 coolant commands. I did this because all of the parsing and protocol issues were already done.  Each command represents one of the clamp positions.

I may post the source code on Github soon.


The machine has (2) home switches (X and Y). A homing sequence needs to be run each time you power up the machine.  All other locations are referenced to this location. A one time  calibration is done to locate the following locations.

  • G54: G54 is the the default work offset. I decided to use the center of the nickel as the 0,0. I jogged the machine visually until the nickel looked centered. I then set the G54 location with this gcode line”G20 L10 P0 X0 Y0″. I made a target shaped graphic that I used to test engrave this location(see above). I used a caliper to measure the centering error, jogged that amount and reset the 0,0. I did this about 5 times until I was satisfied with the centering.
  • G28: I used the G28 location as the location under the nickel hopper. You jog to the location and set it with “G28.1”.
  • G30: I used the G30 location as the position over the eject chute. This is set with the G30.1 gcode command.


I am using LaserGRBL.

This is a great program for this application. It does everything, starting with a bitmap image, to gcode sending in one application. It also has some macro (multi-line gcode) buttons that are very handy. The only drawback for some is that it is Windows only.

Here is an example of the macro to get the nickel.

G90G0X0Y0 ; rapid move to absolute 0,0
M9 ; loosen clamp
G28 ; move under nickels
G4 P0.75 ; wait for nickel to fall and settle
M7 ; close clamp
G4 P0.5; wait a bit
G0X0Y0 ; return to 0,0

Source Files

Possible Improvements

  • Interlock switch: Right now there is no interlock switch for the door. If I make a new PCB, I will add a provision for that. I’ll probably just break all power to the laser module.
  • Nickel Flip: Right now the nickel always comes out of the chute upside down. This is not the best presentation. This was a compromise to make the machine as small as possible. The nickel has to fall between the Y rods. Rather than makethe distance between the rods wider than the nickel, I designed and aligned the clamp/support system so that one side of the nickel falls first and goes between the rods closer to vertical.  There is a probably a way to design the chute to catch the nickel before flips over completely or re-flips it back.
  • Software:
    • More automation: LaserGRBL has macro buttons for the nickel feed and eject features, but it would be nice if that was automatic. They have added a gcode header and footer feature to the roadmap. Right now you can generate the gcode, save the file and paste the nickel handling code in an editor. That file is then fully automatic.
    • Customizing: It would have been fun to easily add names, etc to nickels for people.

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Next Project – Wooden Nickel Engraver

I started working on my next backpack scale CNC project. My backpack scale projects are tiny CNC machines that I can easy carry in a backpack to tech meetups and events. This machine is going to be a wooden nickel laser engraver.

Wooden nickels are small wooden discs. You can buy blanks from various places, including Amazon. You can usually get 100 for less than $10. The goal is to create a machine that loads them from a feed tube, engraves them, then ejects them.


The basic drive will be an H-Bot. It will be similar to the midTbot, but the motors are at the ends of the X axis. It will be fully enclosed, but I not started work on that part yet.

Disc Feed System

I hope to be able to use a single hobby servo to handle the loading and unloading of the blanks. The servo will control a sliding device that has three positions.

  • In the first position it acts like a support shelf for the disc. The bed slides under the feed tube and a disk drops into the pocket.
  • The next position is the clamping position. This holds the disc still while engraving.
  • The final position retracts the shelf so the disc drops through.


The goal is to use a low cost controller like an Arduino Nano.

  • (2) Stepper motors for the X,Y motion
  • (1) Hobby servo for the disc feed system (PWM)
  • (1) Laser power control (PWM)
  • (2) homing switches
  • (1) interlock switch loop if there is a door and/or cover


The major new feature of this design is the disc feed system, so I am primarily working on that right now.

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Coasty Version 1.2

Here are some updates to Coasty – The Coaster Toaster,  the tiny laser cutter specifically designed to cut drink coasters.

New Traction Roller

I made the traction roller diameter a lot smaller and moved it behind the beam. A smaller roller has a lot of advantages. It allows the beam to be closer to the contact points of the rubber orings. This improves the usable work area, because you can get closer to the edge of the coaster. With a smaller diameter the coaster travels less per revolution. This increases the torque and resolution.

Smaller Chassis

The chassis is now about 16mm smaller in depth due to the smaller roller and new location. The depth of the machine is quite a bit smaller than the coaster.

Fan Guard and Carbon Filter

I added a fan cover on the back. This acts as a finger guard and also allows a few layers of carbon filter cloth to be used. Bulk carbon filter cloth for use in air purifiers can be purchased on Amazon very cheaply. It removes a good portion of the odor of the smoke.

Carbon Filter Cloth

Door Interlock Switch

There is now a switch that cuts all power to the laser when the door is opened. You can still run the machine to test the motors, homing etc, the the beam cannot turn on with the door open.

IR Coaster Detector


I was not happy with the coaster homing switch used on the first version. While it never failed, it did not appear to be very robust and it caused some drag on the coaster. I changed to a IR LED and photo diode. When the light from the LED hits the photo diode, it conducts to the +5V. When the coaster blocks the light, it is pulled down to ground. I used a pot on the pull down because it did not know what he exact value would be. It turns out the value needs to be about 40k. The only catch was the microcontroller input pin pull up resistor on the Nano could not not used because it is less than the 40k.  This required a slight hack to Grbl because Grbl is all or nothing on the pull ups for the limit switches.

I was not sure if ambient light changes might be a problem, like bright sunlight. The photo diode looks down and that appears to be good enough to avoid overhead light. I also have a mounting screw there in case I need to add a little shade/cover.

IR LED / Photo Diode Circuit



I have been using Bluetooth on some other machines and really like it. Skipping USB cords and using a phone instead of a computer is great. I have found it to be very reliable. The real world bandwidth appears to be a little lower than 115200 USB. It has not been a problem, but I don’t do much gray scale engraving on this machine which needs higher bandwidth. Regardless, USB is still an option.

A standard HC-05 or HC-06 module plugs into a right angle connector.


Here is a video of this version.

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Using The midTbot Controller

The midTbot Controller is a controller for midTbot pen drawing machines. It is sold on my Tindie store. When fully populated, it has the following features.

  • (2) Stepper Motor Drivers for the X and Y axes with microstepping selector jumpers
  • Servo Connector for Pen Lift
  • Arduino Nano Controller
  • 5V power supply
  • (2) Homing switches
  • Bluetooth connector for HC-05 or HC-06 module.
  • Aux power connector for easy access to 5V and 12V power.

Power Supply

You will need a 12V DC power supply with at least 3A of power. The DC plug should be a coaxial 5.5mm x 2.1mm type with center positive. This type of plug is the most common type and should be pretty easy to find.


You should use an Arduino Nano compatible controller. The controller bootloader will need to be changed to the smaller Arduino UNO bootloader in order to fit the firmware. I have instructions on how to do this here. If you would like to buy one already modified, I sell them on my Tindie store. Be sure to install the controller in the correct orientation. The USB connector should face the edge of the controller as noted on the silkscreen of the controller PCB.

Stepper Drivers

You will need 2 stepper driver modules. I recommend ones based on the Allegro A4988 controller or the TI DRV 8825 controller. The drivers often come with heatsinks. The current will typically be set low enough that heatsinks are not needed.

You will need to set the microstepping level. I recommend using 1/8 microstepping. That gives a good balance of accuracy, smoothness and speed. You set this using the jumper blocks. Each stepper driver type has its own configuration. Here are the jumper setting for A4988 and DRV8825

Microstep ResolutionA4988 JumpersDRV 8825 Jumpers
1/8MS1 + MS2MS1+MS2
1/32Not AvailableMS1+MS2+MS3

Note the MS1, MS2 & MS3 labels next to the jumpers.

The orientation of the drivers is very important. You will break the drivers and likely other parts if you insert them wrong. Most drivers have the pins labeled and the the controller PCB has the corner pins labeled. Be sure the labels match. Here are the correct orientations for the A4988 and DRV8825.

You should set the stepper driver output current to the level required by your stepper motors. The midTbot does not need a lot of power. If you set the power too high, the motor could get hot and damage the 3D printed part it mounts to. You set the current by adjusting a potentiometer and reading a voltage. The drivers need to be powered when you do this. You can install them and power the board to do this. Do not connect the motors when adjusting the potentiometer. Each driver will have a small hole with exposed metal. This is the measurement point. The metal adjustment screw of the potentiometer is also a place you can measure. The reference voltage to current formulea are here.

DRV8825 Current = VREF * 2   (Example 0.4V = 0.8A current)

A4988 is a little more complicated because there are different versions. See this page.

Stepper motors:

The controller is designed for NEMA14 motors. Be sure to get 4 wire motors. Just about any size should work, but I prefer to use smaller ones to keep the size and weight down. You will need to attach connectors to them.  Trim the wires to the correct length so they reach the board connectors when installed. Wires colors should be installed as shown.

The wiring legend on the board that shows where to plug in the motors might not be right. It depends on the way the motor manufacturer wired the coils and which stepper drivers you use. You may need to swap them or rotate the connectors 180° if your axes are moving the wrong way. Here is a photo of how mine are wired. Try this first. Note the wire colors and which motor goes to which connector.


You can add an HC-05 or HC-06 Bluetooth module. They have different connectors, but just match the pin names on both sides. You will need to setup the module to have a baud rate of 115200, N,8,1. I have detail on how to do that here (HC-05, HC-06).



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The Polar Coaster – A Drink Coaster Drawing Machine

I designed this machine to draw custom, round drink coasters. I already have a laser cutter for square coasters and I wanted to try something unique for round coaster.

The Base

The base of the machine has two stacked 5mm bearings in the center for the bed to rotate on. There are (3) 3mm bearings on the bed perimeter that provide support and keep it level. They have little shafts that snap into the base.

The Bed

The bed is  a 156 tooth GT2 pulley. It has little springy fingers that grip the coaster when it is on the bed. The bed connects to the motor pulley with a closed loop belt.

The Radial Arm.

This is a belt driven, cantilevered arm that uses 6mm shafts and linear bearings. The belt is a cut pieces with the ends clamped at the carriage. It has a slotted mounting hole that lets the arm rotate. The pen must be adjustable to get to the exact center of the coaster or the drawing will be distorted. There is a limit switch on the top.  This is the only axis that needs to be homed. To setup the machine you home it and jog the pen until it is exactly over the center of the bed. You then set the work zero for X (Gcode: “G10 L20 P0 X0”). This only needs to be done once. If you use different types of pens, the center should be rechecked.

The Z Axis

The Z axis uses a micro servo and a cam to control the height of the pen. The firmware is setup to only have (2) Z positions, pen up and pen down. It uses 3mm rods and tiny little 3mm linear bearings.  There is a compression spring on one of the rods that applies a little pressure to the pen, and allows the pen to float a little on uneven coasters.

The Controller

I used my Grbl HAT controller. It is a bit overkill for this project but works perfectly.  It is attached to a Raspberry Pi in this photo, but I have not been using the Pi in this project yet. I just connect directly via USB.

Kinematics and Pre-Processin

See this blog post on how it was done. The pre-processor is written in C#, but it is rather simple and you could probably read the source file and convert if you cannot deal with C# on Windows.


I use a modified version of Grbl 1.1f.  Grbl does not support servos, so I needed to hack that in.  I used the PWM that is normally used for the spindle speed to control the servo. I turned off the variable speed spindle option and streamlined the spindle functions to the bare minimum I thought Grbl needed.  I adjusted the PWM parameters for use with a servo and added pen_up() and pen_down() functions. I tried to put as much of the custom code into one file spindle_control.c. I had to add a few lines in stepper.c to look at the current machine Z height and apply the correct pen up/down function.


You can use anything to generate the gcode that works with Grbl. The pen will go up when the Z is above zero and down when it is below zero. Therefore, you want the Z movement as short as possible to speed up the drawing and not have the pen dwell on the material and bleed.  I make the depth of cut 1mm and the z clearance 3mm.

CAD Files.

The design was done using PTC CREO 3.0.  A STEP version of the design is linked at the end of the post.


It does a great job. Here a recent coaster. This was done from a rasterized bitmap image found online (searched: circular Celtic braid).

Here is a Fat Tire beer themed coaster.

Coasters are made to be super absorbent, so larger tipped felt pens tend to bleed a little too much. I like to sketch with Micron pens and the thinner ones really work well on this machine.

Build You Own?

The build is not difficult, but covers a lot of areas. You should know how to work with STEP files and compile firmware.

The design is open source with no commercial restrictions, so feel free to use any part of my work. I found most of the parts on Amazon and eBay. I bought the belt from Stock Drive Products. The polar motor pulley is 36 tooth and the arm pulley is 20 tooth.  Cutting the shafts requires an abrasive cutoff wheel.

Please post any questions in the comments section and I will try to address them.



I sell on Tindie




Polar Pen Machine Kinematics

When you have a round work piece like a drink coaster, it makes sense to have a round work area.  A round work area works best with a polar coordinate system. A polar coordinate system uses an angle and a distance from a center point to define a point in 2D.

The problem is that most drawing and CAM programs work in Cartesian (X,Y,Z) coordinate systems. My machine controller firmware, Grbl, also works in normal linear X,Y, and Z. The process of converting one system to another uses Kinematics.


The Firmware

The firmware is side is actually quite easy. I defined the X axis as the distance in mm from the center (the radius). The Y axis will control the angle. The Y axis is setup so that millimeters will equal degrees. If I tell the Y to move 360mm, it will actually rotate the work area by 360°.  I could have used radians, but my brain works a lot slower in radians.

The machine will only need to home on the X axis. It needs to know where the exact center of the work area is. The starting angle does not matter because the coaster is a circle.

The conversion from X, Y to polar is probably won’t fit in into the firmware, so the X, Y conversion is done in a preprocessor software program. The X,Y gcode is output from normal CAM programs, then run through a conversion program.

The Conversion Program

The program reads the X,Y gcode, converts any X or Y coordinates into polar coordinates and outputs a new gcode file. The sender simply sends the new files.  The math is actually quite simple.

Typical Gcode sends line data by giving the end points of lines. You simply draw from one point to the next, unfortunately this creates a few problems with a non linear machine.

The basic non-linearity problem

If we were trying to draw the green square centered on the work area, the generated gcode would basically send the corner points. Each corner point has an equal radius to the center. Therefore, the pen will never change radius when going to the next point. This will result in a circle. We want the green square, but we get the red circle.

We need to calculate each point along the way to stay on the desired path. The preprocessor divides the line into tiny segments. Each segment has the same problem, but at a scale you won’t be able to see.

The Spiral Problem

If we are drawing a shape that crosses the 0° angle we don’t want the angle to spin the wrong way. If a point is at 350° and the next point is 10° (crosses over 0) we don’t want it to spin backwards from 350° to 10°. We want it to go to 370°.  It happens anywhere the angle difference between 2 points is greater than 180°. The program will choose the shortest direction even if that means going above 360° or below 0° degrees.

The Feed Rate Problem

Feed rate, in CNC terms, is the speed of the tool across the material. The CAM software is setting the feed rate as if this were a Cartesian machine. On this machine, if you were drawing a circle, you would simply move 360 units in Y. Without compensating feed rate, the pen would move across the work piece faster for larger diameter circles. I want to do some sort of compensation to help with this. The coasters are very absorbent, so the  lines look thicker if the speed is slower. A consistent speed will help the quality of the work.

Since the lines are all very short, the easiest way to compensate for feed rate is to use the current radius. With a simple circle, Grbl thinks the machine moved 360mm. The real distance is easy to to calculate from the perimeter of that circle.

We can compare it to the 360mm (full circle) and apply the ratio to the desired feed rate from the CAM program.

polarFeedrate = cartesianFeedrate * 360 / (2 * pi * radius)



Here is a video of it. The machine is rerunning a file to see the repeatability.

Next Steps.

I would like to automate the preprocessor.  I think a Raspberry pi, might be an easy way to do this.  It would sit between the sender and the controller.




Coasty Update

Here is a quick update on Coasty. Several people have asked if I am releasing the source files or selling a kit. I am adjusting the design to make that more viable.  The original version was made with parts I had laying about and not necessarily the best design choices for an open source project.

X Axis.

Originally I used an TR8-8 ACME thread lead screw. It was mounted to the motor by drilling a hole in the lead screw and epoxying it to the motor shaft. This worked well, but you needed a lathe to drill the hole and a special low backlash nut. The axis was also a little loud with and all metal design.

I changed to use a GT2 open belt cut to length.  Belts and pulley are really easy to get and don’t cost too much.


Need to shorten some wires after testing.

There were some issues with the EleksMaker electronics that I did not like. The laser circuit did not appear to have a pull down on the signal and it tended to fire if the Arduino was not pulling it low. This would happen during reboot and other scary times. The wiring was also quite a pain. There were no connectors for the limit switches so you had to directly solder to the Arduino Nano.

I changed to use a custom PCB that is the entire rear panel. This contains all of the circuits including the limit switches. Building a Coasty was a little like building a ship in a bottle. Now the bottle has no bottom and there are less parts inside.

Front Door.

The front door now has a window. This makes the machine more fun to watch and no glasses are required.

Next Steps.

I have one build and am testing it for a while. If all goes well, I will release the source files and consider a kit.


X-Controller-Controller (X-Controller minus controller)


I am very happy with the X-Controller.  It packs everything you need to run Grbl into a clean little package.  It is super easy to hook up and move between machines. With that said, I had a quite a bit different idea in mind when I began the design.

The X-Controller was designed to be the motion controller for the X-Carve. The “X” in X-Carve was meant to signify that it was sold through a configurator and there were a lot of options. The X-controller was going to follow the same concept. It would support Grbl, Beaglebone Machinekit, Smoothy, and others. Additionally, alternate stepper driver PCBs might be developed.

To enable the configurability, the stepper driver section would be separated from the controller section. Every feature the stepper drivers supported would be available to the controller. The plug in controller PCB would control the features via firmware or jumpers and pots, depending on the power of the controller. The current X-controller has 4 stepper drivers, but (2) are wired together. In the split concept the controller card would decide how that was done.

At the time Easel was starting to get some real traction and Easel only supports the Grbl protocol. We decided that it was best to pick the easiest solution for our customers and make the X-Controller Grbl only.

My experiments in Beaglebone and PSoC have been such tangled messes of wires. I always wished I had that disconnected stepper PCB. I finally decided to make one.


The XCC Stepper Driver PCB uses the same Toshiba TB6600 drivers as the X-Controller. It fits in the X-controller just like a stock PCB, but it is quite a bit shorter.  The interface side of the PCB has (1) 2×5 right angle header connector for each axis. Brought out the the connector are…

  • Step
  • Direction
  • Torque  (high=full current, low=1/3 current)
  • Enable
  • Micro-stepping selection
  • VRef (sets the motor current)
  • Ground and VMot



For this version, I put a current selection pot and micro step selection jumpers for each axis to simply testing.  These function should be on the controller board, so most of these will be built without those installed.   The PCB also needs 12VDC to 40VDC power for the motors.  Each driver has a small 5VDC supply built in, so an external source is not needed.


Here is a snapshot of the schematic.  This is just 1 of the 4 identical sections.



Here is snapshot of the layout. I was able to get everything on 2 layers.



It fits into the X-Controller great.  I used a small piece of black acrylic to fit the gap due to the shorter length.  It is working perfectly.  I have been testing it with my PSoC port manually wired in.  A PSoC5 controller will probably be the first controller card I will have made.






Yet Another Way to do the Kinematics


Paul Kaplan, originator of the Easel project, came up with another way to do the kinematics for the Line-us Clone. My method used intersecting circles. His method uses the Law of Cosines.

The Law of Cosines relates the lengths of the sides of a triangle to the cosine of one of its angles.




This can be used to find the angles of the servo arms.

(Click on the images if you want a larger view)

The Goal


The goal is to find the two angles, A1 and A2, of the servo arms

Known Values

  • Px is the desired X location of the pen
  • Py is the desired Y location of the pen
  • L1 is the length of the upper servo arm (50mm)
  • L2 is the length of the end of the Pen Arm (50mm)

Step 1

Find the distance “D” of the pen to hub using the Pythagorean Theroem and the angle T1 using arctangent.

Px2 + Py2 = D2

rewritten … D = Sqrt(Px2 + Py2)



T1 can be found using the arctangent or inverse tangent formula. Note: When programming use the atan2(x,y) function to preserve the quadtrant.

T1 = atan2(Py,Px)

Step 2



Find T2 using the Law of Cosines

L12 + D2 – L22 = 2 * L1 * D *cos(T2)

rewritten …  T2 = acos( (L12 + D2 – L22) / (2 * L1 * D))

Step 3



Find T3 using the Law of Cosines. We want the left one of the two T3 angles, but since the linkages form a parallelogram that same angle shows occurs in several places.  We will use the right one and the dimensions associated with it.

L12 + L22 – D2 = 2 * L1 * L3 * cos(T3)

rewritten … T3 = acos( (L12 + L22 – D2) / (2 * L1 * L2))

Step 4



Determine A1 and A2 from the angles we figured out.

A1 = T1 + T2

A2 = A1 + T3


I think I will switch the code to use this method. I think I can optimize it better in C code. The speed of the code is important.  The faster it runs, the most times per second we can run it.  The more often we run it, the smoother it will run.


Line-us Clone Controlled by Easel and Grbl

Last week I made a Line-us drawing robot clone.  Unfortunately I had no good way to make it draw easily.  I thought I would give the CNC toolpath a shot.  My goal is to have a super portable thing to generate conversation at meetups. If I used Easel it would allow anyone with a web connection to easily make something.



Grbl Logo 250px

The most compact machine controller is Grbl and I have a lot of experience with it.  Grbl is designed to send step and direction signals to stepper motors.  The draw ‘bot uses hobby servos.  The nice thing about hobby servos is they don’t need to be homed.  They have feedback to tell them where they are. They also don’t care about speed, acceleration or steps/mm.  They just go wherever you tell them as fast as they can go. It occurred to me, the easiest way to hack this into Grbl was to not modify the Grbl code at all.  I would let Grbl think it is using stepper motors.  I would just add some extra code that runs on regular interval to tell the hobby servos where the stepper motors are in 3D space and they would be told to go there.  I played around with some intervals and 8 times per second (8Hz) seemed to work pretty well.  The ‘bot uses machine coordinates. The work coordinates are offset to the left because the ‘bot cannot draw at 0,0.  The pen would crash into the frame.


I recently port Grbl to PSoC. I used (3) 16bit PWM components to control the hobby servos.  See this blog post on how I did that.  I then attached a 8Hz clock signal to an interrupt.  The interrupt sets a flag when it is time to update the servos.  When the main code sees this flag it does the calculations and and sets the PWM values.  Keeping the code out of the interrupts gets Grbl happier.



Easel is already setup to use Grbl.  You can either import gcode or create a design right in Easel.  I started out with importing gcode because the Benchy design was not in a format I could import. I created a template that shows the allowable work area. This will allow anyone to quickly create a drawing.


2D Benchy

I wanted to have a little fun with the first print.  “Hello World” was not good enough.  3D printers use benchmark prints, so I thought I would do a 2D version of the classic 3DBenchy.  To get a 2D drawing of 3DBenchy, I traced over an image with the line tool in CorelDRAW.  I then exported a DXF of that.