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Buildlog Title: Bill's 80W Laser Build

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Builder: whmeade10
Member Since: 2010-12-18

Tuesday, December 11th 2012 - 10:02 PM

gavztheouch wrote:Bill what are your thoughts on the Igus Drylin I see you have bought some for this build?


I believe it is going to work very well. It is bigger than the chain I used for the 2x. I was barely able to get the air tube and wires in the 2x chain.

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reader comment Comment from: gavztheouch on Monday, December 3rd 2012 - 8:37 PM
Bill what are your thoughts on the Igus Drylin I see you have bought some for this build?

Wednesday, July 25th 2012 - 5:15 PM

Some of the parts finally started coming in. :D I started on the frame and the X gantry. Here are a couple pics.

Frame-1.JPG
Frame Assembly. Still needs some work.

2012-07-25_11-35-52_855.JPG
L and XL Pulleys.


Getting there, slow but sure :D

Cheers,
Bill

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Wednesday, June 27th 2012 - 2:49 AM

Thanks for the comments guys. I would like to get the 400 Step stepper but it is a single shaft and would work for the X and Z axis but not the Y. I need a double shaft for the Y axis the way my design is going to be. Not sure it will be a good idea to have a 1.8 degree on one axis and .9 degree on the other.

I found a tube with (3) 6 foot ACME 1/2-10 threaded rods from my first CNC router project that I am going to use for the Z table lifting mechanism. Those should work out really well and make the table pretty stable.

Now to see if I can find some double shafted steppers that are 400 steps per rev.

Cheers,
Bill

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reader comment Comment from: educa on Tuesday, June 26th 2012 - 10:07 PM
I currently use 200 steps/rev motors NEMA 23 with 3.1Nm torque using such 4030 drivers. The motors have 8 wires and I run the motors at 4.2 Amps. They give me huge power and accelerations upto 6000mm/s^2 are no problem at all here.

The driver I use is configured for 1/25 microstepping.

If I could have gone for 400 steps motors I surely would have done it.
reader comment Comment from: Techgraphix on Tuesday, June 26th 2012 - 10:02 PM
educa wrote:Thats an easy one - 4 wire and 8 wire doesn't matter

I do not agree entirely. 8 wire does have the advantage of series or parallel connecting. For low speed, low current you can connect them in series.
When you want high speed you have to reduce the selfinduction. By connecting the wires in parallel the selfinduction is a fourth of that when in series.
You need twice the current however. Can your supply deliver this current? The voltage should be as high as possible (if you use 80V drivers, look for a supply of approx 70V for instance)
Ofcourse holdingtorque is important but more than that, you should look after the inertia and the torque-curve (torque/StepsPerSecond RPM)
For a laser you want to reach high speeds in almost zero seconds.. That also has to do with the weight you have to move.. A bigger motor also weights more.
There is quite a lot to think about when you want to get the maximum out of it..

Nowadays drivers do upto 200 microsteps, giving you 40000steps/rev for a 200steps/rev motor.. You probably need only 4000, why should you have to use 400step/rev?

Kees
reader comment Comment from: educa on Tuesday, June 26th 2012 - 8:02 PM
Thats an easy one, take the stepper with 400 steps per rotation.

4 wire and 8 wire doesn't matter. Mine are 8 wire too and you just have to connect them in pairs to the 4 terminals

Tuesday, June 26th 2012 - 7:56 PM

I ordered my stepper drivers and chose the Keling KL-4030s . I am currently using them in the 2.x with the NEMA 17 steppers and they should work fine with the NEMA 23 steppers as well. I plan on using NEMA 23 steppers and need to decide which ones to purchase. Here is what I have been looking at:

Keling Steppers.jpg
Keling Stepper Motors


HobbyCNC Steppers.jpg
HobbyCNC Stepper Motors


Not sure what the difference is between having a stepper that has a 4 wire connection or a 8 wire connection. Maybe someone could enlighten me. :) My 2.x steppers are 4 wire and I have a whole spool of cable that I can use to hook up steppers in the new build if I go that way. I am looking at the Keling KL23H276-28-4B NEMA 23 270 oz-in. It requires just under what the max amp output of the drivers are and should be able to move the X and Y gantries just fine. Although, I have been looking at the HobbyCNC #23-130-DS8, for the X axis, because it has a fast RPM. Just not sure if it has the torque I will need.

Decisions, Decisions.... :D

Cheers,
Bill

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reader comment Comment from: educa on Sunday, June 24th 2012 - 4:09 PM
Thk srs12 or rsr12 is what I use. Look ar my buildlog to the last youtube movie to see how fluid that runs

Saturday, June 23rd 2012 - 6:49 PM

gavztheouch wrote:Great to hear more people are starting to experiment with their own design, can't wait to see what you come up with Bill.

Thanks Gav, I am really looking forward to this build. I just hope the sticker shock for this one doesn't kill me. :lol:
I am going to keep editing my first post and keep track parts and what they cost. :(

educa wrote:Here is my buildlog: viewtopic.php?f=16&t=968

Machine is a 80Watt machine with 1220x610 working area and very rigid components :)


Very nice build educa, I was thinking about just using Bart's MakerSlide but noticed you and Greolt are both using linear rails. They are very expensive! :o, but I took the plunge and bought
2 THK SSR15 NEW LINEAR GUIDE BLOCKS WITH 1- 55 7/8" LM Rail for the Y axis. I plan on cutting the rail in half and using 1 block on each Y rail axis. Now I have to find a 1000mm rail and block for the X axis. Any suggestions are welcome.

I also purchased the 20mm x 40mm x 1000mm extrusion that I will bolt the X axis rail to and the Pro Laser Head kit with optics. As soon as I get the X axis linear rail and parts in I will start the assembly and get some pics up.

Cheers,
Bill

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reader comment Comment from: educa on Saturday, June 23rd 2012 - 12:14 PM
You could buy that head but I have bought mine at another place

Here is my buildlog: viewtopic.php?f=16&t=968

Machine is a 80Watt machine with 1220x610 working area and very rigid components :)

I bought my optics, head, ... at cncoletech .

http://stores.ebay.de/CNCOLETECH?_trksid=p4340.l2563

They respond very fast and ship extremely fast and good
reader comment Comment from: gavztheouch on Friday, June 22nd 2012 - 9:24 AM
Great to hear more people are starting to experiment with their own design, can't wait to see what you come up with Bill.
reader comment Comment from: Speedythinker on Thursday, June 21st 2012 - 6:53 PM
Oh sorry, they included lens and mirror but mine doesn't. Discard my previous post

Marco
reader comment Comment from: Speedythinker on Thursday, June 21st 2012 - 6:51 PM
Bill:

Just let you know I carry those on my web: http://www.lightobject.com/Mount-Fixture-C17.aspx
We ship it from California and over price is about $35 cheaper.

By the way, don't get MO if you're not using 120W or higher power lasaer. The reflection index of MO is less than a gold plated Si. The good thing of MO is that it has higher melting point and life span is longer than a Si. But, if you use anything less than 100W, try to avoid it


Marco

Thursday, June 21st 2012 - 6:43 PM

I have decided to build another DIY Laser. I have had my 2.x for a little over a year now and it has performed superbly! I am getting to the point that I need to increase the power and have a bigger cutting area. I am cutting hundreds of pieces of LaserMax labels and acrylic back panels a month. The 2.x at 40W takes 1 to 2 passes at very slow speeds and if I want to keep up and save time I need to upgrade.

Anyway, I plan on building a laser similar to Greg's (Greolt's Aussie build) http://www.buildlog.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=1002 He did an outstanding job on his laser.

The frame will be built from 1" square tubing and 1" x 2" tubing. This laser will be fully self contained with cooling system, air assist, and fume extraction.

I have a lot to do and want to document the build so I can keep things straight in my head and get help from some of the best minds in the DIY laser forums.

DING DING, round two begins! :D

Cheers,
Bill

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