Buildlog Title: Delta ORD Bot
Builder: bdring
Member Since: 2009-11-22
Comment from: mhensen on Friday, February 22nd 2013 - 2:17 PM
I will have it done by somebody 
I have no place to put and store that kind of machinery.. No barn or cellar.. Amsterdam is not famous for the big houses, well spaced and lot of rooms, within a 'normal' budget
Friday, February 22nd 2013 - 2:02 PM
I would not use a table saw either.Seriously...get or borrow a chop saw.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iVWW1JuI3-Q
Comment from: Winder on Friday, February 22nd 2013 - 1:43 PMThe plastic miter box and hack saw method that @roberlin suggested is very cheap (~$10 for both the box and the saw) and very accurate. I made a lot of projects using these when I was an apartment hopper with no place for larger power tools, and still break them out every once in a while when I have a material that I don't want to run through my woodworking tools. (To my table saw's dismay, I'm perfectly happy to cut aluminum makerslide with it)
Friday, February 22nd 2013 - 1:26 PM
That Dremel DSM20 looks like it could be handy for a lot of projects, but I think a chop saw would do much better. In the US a good chop saw is less than half the price of that dremel. Comment from: mhensen on Friday, February 22nd 2013 - 1:03 PMI think i will try and find me somebody who can do it.. or purchase a smalltool ..
I just saw the Dremel DSM20.. That might do the trick and is small for storage and easy to use!!
First I will look for that Dremel DSM20 in Amsterdam.. if not I will take the makerslides to a store and let them cut it for me..
They already made me a hotbed.. so that will be ok . But then it has to wait till monday, bummer.. ( i think I leave it at 1m for now. yeah, then I can print up to 75 cm!! Bad idea, I know)
Thanks anyway.. Now I know for sure that my current tools won't make me a proper cut.. so it is Investment time!!
I just saw the Dremel DSM20.. That might do the trick and is small for storage and easy to use!!
First I will look for that Dremel DSM20 in Amsterdam.. if not I will take the makerslides to a store and let them cut it for me..
They already made me a hotbed.. so that will be ok . But then it has to wait till monday, bummer.. ( i think I leave it at 1m for now. yeah, then I can print up to 75 cm!! Bad idea, I know)
Thanks anyway.. Now I know for sure that my current tools won't make me a proper cut.. so it is Investment time!!
Comment from: roberlin on Friday, February 22nd 2013 - 12:55 PMI have always cut mine with a hacksaw (sometimes using a miter-box, although for me this necessitates switching to a wood-saw at the end when my hacksaw bottoms out). It is not that difficult, but with my level of care the end doesn't wind up looking that great. If you do this, you should take some care about where the factory ends wind up (i.e. if you need an end square or looking nice, make sure its one of the factory ends).
Each time I do it, I swear I will get a power miter saw before the next time.
Each time I do it, I swear I will get a power miter saw before the next time.
Friday, February 22nd 2013 - 12:17 PM
Do not try to cut it with and abrasive type blade. You will just gum up the blade and have a horrible cut.A circular chop saw is the best. Just about any cheap carbide blade will give an awesome cut.
Comment from: mhensen on Friday, February 22nd 2013 - 8:54 AMLooks encouraging to me
Hopefully today my parts will finally arrive! Held up by customs for the last 10 days
But that gave me time to print the parts needed and source all my other parts..
The last part that need to get in is the dial gauge, but all the rest is here or on it's way for delivery today !!!
Today I will go out and find me some glass and aluminium for my heated bed.. Got the resistors in, never knew that that are car blinker resistors But I got 10 10ohm 25Watt clads waiting to be used.
Now I need to think about isolating the bottom part of the heatbed so I does't radiate so much heat down!
Any tips for cutting the makerslide if you don't own a circular saw?? Just handsaws or dremel with large 'diamond' plated cut of disk is what I have at my disposal..
All in all, let the build commence!!
Good luck with further tuning your Delta ORD!
Hopefully today my parts will finally arrive! Held up by customs for the last 10 days
But that gave me time to print the parts needed and source all my other parts..
The last part that need to get in is the dial gauge, but all the rest is here or on it's way for delivery today !!!
Today I will go out and find me some glass and aluminium for my heated bed.. Got the resistors in, never knew that that are car blinker resistors
But I got 10 10ohm 25Watt clads waiting to be used. Now I need to think about isolating the bottom part of the heatbed so I does't radiate so much heat down!
Any tips for cutting the makerslide if you don't own a circular saw?? Just handsaws or dremel with large 'diamond' plated cut of disk is what I have at my disposal..
All in all, let the build commence!!
Good luck with further tuning your Delta ORD!
Friday, February 22nd 2013 - 3:03 AM
I have not done much with the delta since ORD Camp. A cable got broken on the trip home, so I just couldn't find the time to fix it.The prints were looking a little rough at the end of ORD Camp. I let dozens of people hack away at the hardware and software, but the real problem turned out to be a loose and striped screw at the end of one of the linkages. I made all the repairs and started tweaking the software.
I am using a Z squashed bottle opener as a test file. Here is a current print. It is pretty darn good. It still has some weird tiny voids on perimeters. You can see a few in this picture. The scrape on the upper right is me prying it off the bed.
I'll still keep tweaking, but the results are encouraging.
This is ABS.
Friday, February 8th 2013 - 2:03 PM
You might edit the files to add mounting holes for the controller and power supply before you have it cut. Comment from: mhensen on Friday, February 8th 2013 - 2:01 PMThanks, I will have them cut and hopefully it all fits
Friday, February 8th 2013 - 1:48 PM
I put the DXFs for the plywood parts on the Wikihttp://www.buildlog.net/wiki/doku.php?i ... ta_ord_bot
Use at your own risk. I do not consider this a completed design.
Thursday, February 7th 2013 - 2:30 PM
That wiring pocket was a complicated parametric feature based on higher level assembly features. It blew up when I accidentally deleted some parts. It happened after the parts were cut so I did not bother to fix it. Comment from: mhensen on Thursday, February 7th 2013 - 2:11 PMThanks, and yes I noticed it in the 3D model that you had it flat except for the power source.
And I am fine with that and will skip the pocketing an inlay!
Thanks in advance!!
And I am fine with that and will skip the pocketing an inlay!
Thanks in advance!!
Thursday, February 7th 2013 - 1:55 PM
I can provide a DXF later today. I need to update the Viki footprint for the production version. It is currently the old version.The DXF and 3D model is probably sufficient to get parts made, but I was in "get it done" mode and may have taken some short cuts that I tweaked at CAM time like hole diameters, etc. If you are not doing the CNC yourself I would skip the pocketing and acrylic inlay for the wires.
Comment from: mhensen on Thursday, February 7th 2013 - 11:58 AMGood to hear it can work form just one power source.. I will start digging through the internet for a good supplier of the glass!!
But already the next question. As I don't want to do it all by hand, I have put out a request to a dutch CNC forum. This involves cutting the wooden frames..
?? As I am not that familiar with all 3D definitions and files types, I am wondering if you could provide the 3 wooden pieces in DXF format so that I can let it CNC... ??
It seems they want that file format.. ?!?!
But already the next question. As I don't want to do it all by hand, I have put out a request to a dutch CNC forum. This involves cutting the wooden frames..
?? As I am not that familiar with all 3D definitions and files types, I am wondering if you could provide the 3 wooden pieces in DXF format so that I can let it CNC... ??
It seems they want that file format.. ?!?!
Thursday, February 7th 2013 - 12:28 AM
The heated bed is on the same supply. At first I was a little worried about it, but it works fine. Someone at ORD was playing with it and it was running at 120C
. I got the glass plate from the glass place next to my day job. It is 1/4" thick. They polished the edges real nice. I am not sure of the glass type, but it works fine. The price was about $35, but I needed it right away to meet my crazy 2 week deadline.
I just finished a new end effector. The QU-BD locks up with PLA. I used a Lulzbot Buda... thing. I just found out on the Delat forum that that don't work with 1.75 PLA without serious hacking.
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic ... HPsB329Rw8
Comment from: mhensen on Thursday, February 7th 2013 - 12:19 AMAre you running the heatbed on a separate power supply or direct from the controller (azteeg or other) and the last part I am looking for is the glassplate.. where did you get yours? Or what thickness is it?
I know, questions, questions but I have set my mind on your delta design
Parts are already on their way
I know, questions, questions but I have set my mind on your delta design
Parts are already on their way
Wednesday, February 6th 2013 - 2:13 PM
Some people use thin carbon rods that go in the center of the link. Due to the links, all rods are only in tension or compression at all times, so there is no real bending force other than what would come from vibration. Comment from: Zat German on Wednesday, February 6th 2013 - 2:34 AMbdring wrote:The rod ID is just a hair under a #6-32 diameter so you can get a tiny bit of thread with the #6-32 tap.
Oh yeah, a tap self centers! I've got the fixture and everything setup like in your post. I got a little too stuck on the part about the 6-32 self tapping into the rod at the end. I think I only have metric taps, I'll have to check. Thanks.
Wednesday, February 6th 2013 - 2:30 AM
The rod ID is just a hair under a #6-32 diameter so you can get a tiny bit of thread with the #6-32 tap. The rod splits easily, so I put tight heatsink over the ends. I put a dab of epoxy on the threads and screwed them in. I used a fixture, but you still have a little adjustment by spinning the link. You need to spin in half turns, so the adjustments are in 0.015" increments. It is best to use a fixture.See this post.
viewtopic.php?f=16&t=1783&start=20#p16479
Comment from: Zat German on Wednesday, February 6th 2013 - 2:16 AMHey Bart, any tips on how to thread the set screw into the carbon fiber straight?
Comment from: orcinus on Sunday, February 3rd 2013 - 6:21 PMIf you get the chance, give Arcol.hu a try too.
As long as you have a fan blowing across it, it's very tolerant of retracts (at least in my experience).
There's just one thing that occasionally goes wrong with it and that's having the filament freeze inside the SS barrel and plug it if you cool it too much (or extrude too cold), which is easily rectified by heating up to 210-230 and doing a quick purge (i usually just manually shove a few cm of filament through, although you can just heat up and let the extruder do the work). But, like i've said, you need to over-cool it for it to happen in the first place (two 50mm fans at full blast + extruding at 170 is what usually triggers it on mine, although it heavily depends on filament).
The first time this happened i didn't know it was as easy as that and ended up dismantling everything then cleaning the barrel and nozzle with a torch. Lots of fuss for nothing.
As long as you have a fan blowing across it, it's very tolerant of retracts (at least in my experience).
There's just one thing that occasionally goes wrong with it and that's having the filament freeze inside the SS barrel and plug it if you cool it too much (or extrude too cold), which is easily rectified by heating up to 210-230 and doing a quick purge (i usually just manually shove a few cm of filament through, although you can just heat up and let the extruder do the work). But, like i've said, you need to over-cool it for it to happen in the first place (two 50mm fans at full blast + extruding at 170 is what usually triggers it on mine, although it heavily depends on filament).
The first time this happened i didn't know it was as easy as that and ended up dismantling everything then cleaning the barrel and nozzle with a torch. Lots of fuss for nothing.
Sunday, February 3rd 2013 - 3:50 PM
Print quality.Honestly, the print quality is not quite up to my Hadron yet. The motion is great and I love the using Z retracts (hopping).
My extruder still needs some work. It just does not stop and restart as good as it should and that shows up on the print. A Bowden likes a lot of retract and my QU-BD nozzle does not appear to like that. With that said, the Delta Maker on kickstarter appears to be using a QU-BD with PLA.
I have a few more nozzles to try, Buddaschnozzle, J-Head and maybe a non Bowden PG35 system.
Comment from: mhensen on Sunday, February 3rd 2013 - 3:36 PMThanks al lot for sharing your design of the Delta Ord Bot.
I have already placed my order for the makerslide parts..
But although I already ordered the parts, I was curious about the print quality, can you give any hints on that part.. I know it all depends on your build quality!!
I plan to print all the parts that I cannot buy based on the parts you've designed and hopefully it all will come together nicely.. and let somebody CNC the wood parts!
I think the Delta takes away any possible z-problems but I don't know what other problems might occur
Thanks in advance!
I have already placed my order for the makerslide parts..
But although I already ordered the parts, I was curious about the print quality, can you give any hints on that part.. I know it all depends on your build quality!!
I plan to print all the parts that I cannot buy based on the parts you've designed and hopefully it all will come together nicely.. and let somebody CNC the wood parts!
I think the Delta takes away any possible z-problems but I don't know what other problems might occur
Thanks in advance!
Saturday, February 2nd 2013 - 8:21 PM
I am working on a new end effector. How do like these LEDs.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q9 ... 00_s00_i00
Bottom view.
Comment from: SystemsGuy on Saturday, February 2nd 2013 - 5:14 PMShe who must be pleased just cut mine to length - and I asked for longer! 
orcinus wrote:mpeele wrote:I don't know if you found it or not but here is a site that sell it cut to length.
You're talking about tubing, not Saturdays, aren't you?
Comment from: orcinus on Saturday, February 2nd 2013 - 2:59 PMmpeele wrote:I don't know if you found it or not but here is a site that sell it cut to length.
You're talking about tubing, not Saturdays, aren't you?
Comment from: Zat German on Saturday, February 2nd 2013 - 2:47 PMmpeele wrote:I don't know if you found it or not but here is a site that sell it cut to length.
http://www.cableorganizer.com/shrinkfle ... nAodMlEABQ
Unfortunately, the smallest size won't shrink enough for a .210" diameter carbon fiber rod.
You can buy smaller diameters there but at about 5x the cut-to-length price. I think this is because the smaller diameters are shielded(which we don't need).
Comment from: mpeele on Saturday, February 2nd 2013 - 1:05 PMI don't know if you found it or not but here is a site that sell it cut to length.
http://www.cableorganizer.com/shrinkfle ... nAodMlEABQ
http://www.cableorganizer.com/shrinkfle ... nAodMlEABQ
Thursday, January 31st 2013 - 8:51 PM
The STEP file is here.http://www.buildlog.net/wiki/doku.php?i ... ta_ord_bot
This is only a snap sot of the design. The model is not 100%. I only modeled as much as I need to get the job done in a very short time period.
Comment from: mhensen on Thursday, January 31st 2013 - 8:27 PMI am interested in your designs too.. Especially the top and bottom plates
As I don't have the machinery to do this I would have to let it do by someone here in the netherlands, and as you already designed and build it why should I walk the road from the beginning
I am running an Ordbot to do the printing stuff, so all should be fine for the rest of the parts that I cannot buy !
Thanks in advance,
Michael Hensen
Amsterdam, The Netherlands
As I don't have the machinery to do this I would have to let it do by someone here in the netherlands, and as you already designed and build it why should I walk the road from the beginning
I am running an Ordbot to do the printing stuff, so all should be fine for the rest of the parts that I cannot buy !
Thanks in advance,
Michael Hensen
Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Comment from: Wickity on Friday, January 25th 2013 - 4:44 PMbdring wrote:My files should be up in a few days. I want to post one complete STEP file. Right now a few of the fine details like the end effector are in separate assemblies. If you were organized, you could probably fabricate and assemble it in one long Saturday.
You could always design your own machine. That is even more fun.
You're absolutely right, that would be more fun. I'm just not a smart man.
Hahahaha.
Friday, January 25th 2013 - 2:17 PM
Where can I get a couple of the long ones?
They magically appear when the rest of the family is out of town. Otherwise, you get the ones that only last a couple hours.
Comment from: cvoinescu on Friday, January 25th 2013 - 2:02 PMbdring wrote:If you were organized, you could probably fabricate and assemble it in one long Saturday.
I'm looking at my calendar, and all I can see are regular-length Saturdays. Where can I get a couple of the long ones?
Friday, January 25th 2013 - 1:57 PM
Yes, that is sort of my style too.I like building for myself.
My files should be up in a few days. I want to post one complete STEP file. Right now a few of the fine details like the end effector are in separate assemblies. If you were organized, you could probably fabricate and assemble it in one long Saturday.
You could always design your own machine. That is even more fun.
Comment from: SystemsGuy on Friday, January 25th 2013 - 10:54 AMPop over to the deltabot google group - there are a number of beam Delta variants - a couple are based around Makerslide!
Wickity wrote:Yeah, I looked at the kickstarter, but he' s only selling completely assembled units. I like building for myself. I'd love to see files when they're up. Thanks, I appreciate the info.
Comment from: Wickity on Friday, January 25th 2013 - 3:03 AMYeah, I looked at the kickstarter, but he' s only selling completely assembled units. I like building for myself. I'd love to see files when they're up. Thanks, I appreciate the info.
Thursday, January 24th 2013 - 11:04 PM
Right now I am not planning on making kits. I will release the source files soon. There is a new kickstarter, if you want to buy one. Comment from: Wickity on Thursday, January 24th 2013 - 10:40 PMI don't know what the convention is here, as I'm brand new, so please forgive me if you have a rule against it, but....
How much would you say you spent in supplies to build this?
And would you be willing to print/build/mail a set of the non purchasable bits? I've been toying with the idea of a delta 3d printer, but I don't know what I'm doing at all... Having aplatform like this to start from for experimentation would be *awesome*. So, thoughts?
How much would you say you spent in supplies to build this?
And would you be willing to print/build/mail a set of the non purchasable bits? I've been toying with the idea of a delta 3d printer, but I don't know what I'm doing at all... Having aplatform like this to start from for experimentation would be *awesome*. So, thoughts?
Thursday, January 24th 2013 - 3:47 PM
It's done *I may show it off at PS1 tonight if I can finish up a few other unrelated things.
BTW: What timing! Did you see this kickstarter
. Anything that uses MakerSlide is cool with me!http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/del ... -printer-0
* actually it's never "done"
Comment from: cvoinescu on Thursday, January 24th 2013 - 2:40 PMaleith wrote:how about this silicon mat http://www.amazon.com/Progressive-Inter ... pd_sim_k_4
Have you tried it? I have no idea whether ABS sticks on silicone at all. It's not the difficult release that's usually the problem, it's the lack of adhesion, so silicone is probably a step in the wrong direction. I may be wrong -- do try it and tell us!
Comment from: aleith on Thursday, January 24th 2013 - 2:36 PMcvoinescu wrote:aleith wrote:I don't know if this is a stupid noob question but has anyone tried to print on Parchment paper or a silpat baking sheet. Seems like you could take the print off the sheet quicker, works for cookies.
But does it stick well enough while being printed? That is very important, especially with ABS.
how about this silicon mat http://www.amazon.com/Progressive-Inter ... pd_sim_k_4
I think parchment paper for baking is inexpensive enough to try it has a tooth it isn't slippery
Comment from: cvoinescu on Thursday, January 24th 2013 - 2:27 PMaleith wrote:I don't know if this is a stupid noob question but has anyone tried to print on Parchment paper or a silpat baking sheet. Seems like you could take the print off the sheet quicker, works for cookies.
But does it stick well enough while being printed? That is very important, especially with ABS.
Comment from: aleith on Thursday, January 24th 2013 - 2:12 PMI don't know if this is a stupid noob question but has anyone tried to print on Parchment paper or a silpat baking sheet. Seems like you could take the print off the sheet quicker, works for cookies.
Comment from: SystemsGuy on Thursday, January 24th 2013 - 12:46 AMLooking great Bart - be aggressive with your retraction setting with the bowden - lots of distance (5 mm - 7mm) and fast (65mm/s) as you can.
Comment from: Zat German on Thursday, January 24th 2013 - 12:11 AMbdring wrote:
Looking good! Are you going to post parts/info on building this eventually?
Wednesday, January 23rd 2013 - 8:17 PM
I just ran my first print and it looks pretty good. I am going to have to play with the extruder settings. I am using my ORD Bot settings and there is some oozing.The bed heats up a lot faster now that it is not in open air. It takes forever to cool down though so you need to wait to pull off the prints.
Comment from: BenJackson on Wednesday, January 23rd 2013 - 3:36 AMThe round cousin of my prusa's heated bed!
For power purposes I bypassed the whole "+" side of the RAMPS heated bed circuit (it only goes through the polyfuse) and put a 25A automotive fuse inline with a PSU connection direct to the bed. On the FET side I replaced the bed FET with IRLB8743, a 3.5mOhm logic level FET which can handle a lot more power and barely gets warm.
(I bought thermal epoxy for mine but ended up drilling and tapping for #2 (through). I did the tapping with my drillpress and the old "pull handle, switch off & coast" trick. That's 2x 4x 5R which can be used in series or parallel. I use them in parallel for .625R overall and about 225W after losses in the 10ga supply wire that reaches over to my bench PSU)
For power purposes I bypassed the whole "+" side of the RAMPS heated bed circuit (it only goes through the polyfuse) and put a 25A automotive fuse inline with a PSU connection direct to the bed. On the FET side I replaced the bed FET with IRLB8743, a 3.5mOhm logic level FET which can handle a lot more power and barely gets warm.
(I bought thermal epoxy for mine but ended up drilling and tapping for #2 (through). I did the tapping with my drillpress and the old "pull handle, switch off & coast" trick. That's 2x 4x 5R which can be used in series or parallel. I use them in parallel for .625R overall and about 225W after losses in the 10ga supply wire that reaches over to my bench PSU)
Wednesday, January 23rd 2013 - 3:09 AM
This is my temporary hot bed. This is 1/4" 6061 tooling plate (flat). There are (10) 10 Ohm resistors in parallel. This yields about 144 watts (12A). It takes about 8 minutes to reach 60C. That was un-insulated in open air. I may nip out one resistor if I think the current is too high. The resistors are thermal epoxied to the plate. Comment from: BenJackson on Tuesday, January 22nd 2013 - 6:31 PMbdring wrote:The Z zero is now setup. That is a bit of a pain. The machine resets to the top, so you need to jog down to zero and store those values in the setup.
Just home to the top and use the start.gcode to set G92 Zxxx where xxx is the height off the bed. That's how my makerbot homes.
Tuesday, January 22nd 2013 - 5:45 PM
Ah...thanks.That is perfect. I can write a simple gcode script to warm up the nozzle, retract the filament slowly for a bit, retract quickly the rest of the long way, then beep.
Comment from: SystemsGuy on Tuesday, January 22nd 2013 - 5:39 PMGotcha - so go into the G-Code editor, and select the drop down - you'll see entries for each of the 5 - menu driven scripts. The aren't really "scripts" in the sense of a programming language - they are just sequences of gcode commands.
- Repetier-Host V0.82b - scripts.jpg (15.38 KiB) Viewed 22804 times
bdring wrote:I would like to play with some scripts for loading and unloading the filament from the long tube. Repetier has this menu, but I can't find out how to use it.
Tuesday, January 22nd 2013 - 5:28 PM
I would like to play with some scripts for loading and unloading the filament from the long tube. Repetier has this menu, but I can't find out how to use it. Comment from: SystemsGuy on Tuesday, January 22nd 2013 - 5:18 PMI'm confused, but had a lot of coffee - what are you wanting to change in Repetier Host? You want "home" to go to the bed - eg home to zero?
bdring wrote:I got the extruder running. Everything works fine. The cartridge resonates and amplifies the stepper noise a bit. I might add some rubber pieces under the drive mech. I might want to write a few scripts for loading and unloading the filament, because that takes a while.
Does anyone know how to program the scripts on the Repetier Printer menu?
The Z zero is now setup. That is a bit of a pain. The machine resets to the top, so you need to jog down to zero and store those values in the setup.
The last step is my heated bed. I may try a few PLA prints on cold blue tape first.
Tuesday, January 22nd 2013 - 4:13 PM
I got the extruder running. Everything works fine. The cartridge resonates and amplifies the stepper noise a bit. I might add some rubber pieces under the drive mech. I might want to write a few scripts for loading and unloading the filament, because that takes a while.Does anyone know how to program the scripts on the Repetier Printer menu?
The Z zero is now setup. That is a bit of a pain. The machine resets to the top, so you need to jog down to zero and store those values in the setup.
The last step is my heated bed. I may try a few PLA prints on cold blue tape first.
Monday, January 21st 2013 - 4:42 AM
I cut and varnished the top plate. The picture is the bottom side of the top plate. The top is just flat.The three big pockets are just to reduce the weight and create a hand hold. The mitered the edges make it more comfortable to hold. The little pockets allow wires inside the Makerslide to flip over the top and run back down a channel. The big round groove was a last minute idea that would allow me to install an acrylic panel if I decide to use one.
Everything is now wired except for the heated bed. A last minute snafu got it sent to an new anodizer who messed up. I get the raw plate back tomorrow and I need to decide what I am going to do about the bed.
I only spent about 30 seconds sanding this to get the wood bunnies off since this is really not visible.
Large Pocket: 0.50 diameter straight flute, 0.40 Deep Single Pass, 50 ipm
Miter: 0.50 diameter 45 deg bit, 0.20 deep single pass, 60 ipm
Everything else: 1/8 diameter 2 flute straight bit, 0.15 per pass, 40-60 ipm.
Total time: About 30 minutes with tool changes.
Varnish: 3 coats Minwax, Gloss water based.
Sunday, January 20th 2013 - 9:04 PM
Here is the "completed" end effector. The block, heater, nozzle and tube are from a QU-BD. They are mounted to an old CPU heatsink. That has a small 30mm fan blowing on it. The only thing I am concerned about is the approx 15mm the filament goes on sheathed. It could kink there, but my experiments suggest it won't. It is an easy fix by mod'ing the top piece.It might look big, but the fan impeller is about the size of a quarter. Total wight is 2.8 oz (80 grams). Most of the weight is the hot end.
Sunday, January 20th 2013 - 7:50 PM
The cartridge uses thumb screws to attach the removable side on the other end to the face of the extrusions. The rest of the sides mount inside the channels. The original feed end (yellow nozzle) is slightly easier to install because you can feed the filament after the spool is in. For the Bowden end you need to unroll a foot or so and feed it. I'll eventually make another cartridge specifically for the Delta.Here is the power connection for the filament stepper. There is a hole drill in the MakerSlide and it routes inside up to the electronics are.
Comment from: kbob on Sunday, January 20th 2013 - 7:12 PMbdring wrote:Here it is mounted to the cartridge. I put it at the back end so I could still use the cartridge for the other printers.
How do you open the cartridge to change the spool or put the filament through the other opening? Does it require a wrench?
Comment from: SystemsGuy on Sunday, January 20th 2013 - 11:43 AMVery, very nice!! It's interesting - Johann seems to be moving away from Bowden's on his latest iteration of the Kossel. I'm not 100% I understand why yet - I've managed to get really nice prints with mine,.
Saturday, January 19th 2013 - 11:07 PM
Here it is mounted to the cartridge. I put it at the back end so I could still use the cartridge for the other printers.Saturday, January 19th 2013 - 10:41 PM
Here is my completed Bowden drive end. It uses two printed parts. It is wide so that it bolts to the top of my cartridge. The spacers are there because I did not have the right length hardware. I have a Delrin tube fitting for my Teflon tubing. I actually used a pipe tap on the printed part and it worked fine.I had to print this in PLA because the width kept causing warping even with a 6mm brim.
Attachements...
Thursday, January 17th 2013 - 11:07 PM
I can't make it tonight or probably next week either. Comment from: AVRC on Thursday, January 17th 2013 - 11:03 PMWill you be showing this off at PS:One tonight?
Comment from: SystemsGuy on Thursday, January 17th 2013 - 1:28 PMSounds interesting - can't wait to see what you come up with. I've still not got enough offcut extrusion to build one of your spool holders, but they look too sexy to pass up!!
Thursday, January 17th 2013 - 1:24 PM
Right now the plan is to use parts I have on hand. That will be a QU-BD hot end. The hot end bolts through a small CPU heatsink and is cooled by a 30mm fan.The drive will be a bowden system using QU-BD motor, MK7 drive gear and a idler bearing similar to my modification. I will start by mounting the drive end to the top of my spool cartridge and see how that works and looks. I printed most of the parts last night.
I have some teflon tubing and delrin quick release tube fittings that are super light and easy to use.
The hot bed is a big 6061 plate with power resistors. It will take a while to heat up, but should do until my final hot bed shows up. I kept the wattage low so I don't have to worry about blowing fuses or FETs. I threw it in a friend's batch of aluminum getting hard coated, so it will have an awesome black finish.
Comment from: SystemsGuy on Thursday, January 17th 2013 - 8:48 AMBart - what are you going to do for an extruder / hotend on your delta?
Wednesday, January 16th 2013 - 7:53 PM
LinuxCNC does have that. There is a whole inverse kinematics layer. I think there is a default kinematics that most of us use that basically says x=x, y=y, z=z. I have seen setups for 6 axis delta bots in EMC2.It is amazing what the Arduino can do, but I am sure Rapsi and 32 bit controllers will be taking over very soon. The Arduinos just can't look far enough ahead.
Comment from: macona on Wednesday, January 16th 2013 - 7:30 PMDosnt LinuxCNC have the kinematics built in for a delta? Maybe make a mod for lCNC to pass through the non-movment g-codes to the arduino for extruder and temp control.
I know, sounds complicated but leaves the hard stuff for linuxcnc to handle and then the g-code is more universal.
I know, sounds complicated but leaves the hard stuff for linuxcnc to handle and then the g-code is more universal.
Wednesday, January 16th 2013 - 1:39 PM
built by hand in home shops all around the world
Sure, but I can't imagine myself taking on a project like this with such a small time budget without CAD tools, spreadsheets, etc. It was really nice to just pop the dimensions into the firmware and have them work.
It is a complicated project. Every location in the working envelope has a different step/mm resolution. It is all simple triangle math, but it is nice be able to play with values and see it graphed in real time on a spreadsheet.
What is controlling this?
It runs standard 3 axis G-Code using modified versions of standard Arduino firmware (Marlin, Repetier). The 3 linear actuators are labeled in firmware as X,Y,Z, but the GCode is translated on the fly into the moves required to get the motion you want. It is sort of like the way an arc move is broken down into line segment moves on some systems.
Comment from: SystemsGuy on Wednesday, January 16th 2013 - 11:37 AMLooks great Bart, and yeah - if you don't have convex / concave deviation of the effector when moving to the x/y extremes, you've done stunningly!
Comment from: macona on Wednesday, January 16th 2013 - 6:59 AMbdring wrote:
I can't imaging doing this with without CAD tools and digital fabrication.
Why is that? Looks simple enough to me.
Much more complex and difficult things have been designed and built by hand in home shops all around the world. We are lucky to get to play with the toys we do.
What is controlling this? I see something there on the base. Does the control handle a delta natively or do you have to program for it in software? I didnt see anything earlier in the thread.
Wednesday, January 16th 2013 - 2:00 AM
I got the thing calibrated. I started by using a caliper to measure the height of the carriages off the bed. That was probably a waste of time because when I used the gauge, I was way off.Here was my process.
- Zero the machine
- Run it down to the bed
- move it in a line perpendicular to one of the axes
- adjust an end stop trigger (thumb screw)
- Repeat until it is level across the bed
- Repeat on another axis
I got it to within about 0.12mm across the whole bed. I probably could have done better, but I might be doing some tweaks soon that would spoil the calibration. I did not have any humps or troughs so my geometry must be right (go CAD!)
I also drew a little shape. It was manually entered GCode one line at a time so there are some bleeds in the corners as it waited for me to think and type.
Comment from: kbob on Monday, January 14th 2013 - 5:27 PMbdring wrote:I can't imagine doing this with without CAD tools and digital fabrication.
That's probably why nobody was doing it in 1960. (-:
Monday, January 14th 2013 - 2:19 PM
The terms in the firmware are a little confusing. This is what they are referring to (I think...it is working).I can't imaging doing this with without CAD tools and digital fabrication.
Monday, January 14th 2013 - 1:20 PM
Are those standard Misumi brackets at the base of the MakerSlide?
The brackets are the standard cast 40mm wide brackets. They have little alignment bosses on them to align in the slots. That is handy in most cases, but I had to route pockets in the base for them.
The Makerslide is also bolted to the base using tapped holes in the center. The 4 bolts made it easy to get the rails straight. A little extra torque on the right bolt pulls the rail straight. The top plywood plates lock it in.
I have the end effector on now and was able to do a few air cuts. I have used both Repetier and Marlin. Marlin was not as smooth running. It may have been just different default settings. The motors are a little louder than I hoped. The X axis on my Hadron is super quiet and I hoped these would be similar. I guess you always have three motors at the same time, so that could be he reason.
The next step is mounting the extruder. I may just mount the Bowden extruder on top of my acrylic spool case for now.
Comment from: SystemsGuy on Monday, January 14th 2013 - 10:06 AMAwesome progress Bart - if you think it's cool homing, wait till you see it printing! Are those standard Misumi brackets at the base of the makerslide?
Sunday, January 13th 2013 - 11:39 PM
I made a fixture for assembling my connecting rods. This insures the rods are all 260mm long.It has Dubro #6-32 ball ends, a 3/4" long #6-32 set screw and carbon fiber tubes. There is a little piece of heat shrink on the ends of each rod to prevent them from splitting. The 6-32 self tapped into the rods.
Sunday, January 13th 2013 - 1:51 PM
I'm guessing the idlers at the bottom of each rail could be lifted quite a bit
I thought they looked cooler at the bottom.
The motors are running. They are all going the right direction and the limits switches are functional. It is really cool to see this thing zero itself. They all rise to the top at the same time and take turns doing the double tap zero technique. I am using this build of Marlin for testing.
I have been bopping between Pronterface and Repetier Host as the front end. Pronterface is a little better at staying out of the way and just letting me do whatever I want. I am going to play with it as is for a bit because crashing a carriage at the bottom is not as traumatic as crashing the end effector into the base.
Comment from: canadianavenger on Sunday, January 13th 2013 - 3:07 AMLookin' good! I'm guessing the idlers at the bottom of each rail could be lifted quite a bit, as you're unlikely to ever need [or even be able to] drive the carriage all the way to the bottom. [Though I guess that really depends on the length of your arms, the size of your head plate, and the range or motion - 2 of 3 which I can't see yet ]
]
Saturday, January 12th 2013 - 9:57 PM
I have the 3 axes assembled and now. I have the p/s, motors and limit switches wired. I will probably try running the motors tomorrow.The wiring on the top will get a cover as soon as it is all tested.
Comment from: Enraged on Thursday, January 10th 2013 - 9:28 PMIf you have time, you should put some LEDs on the bottom, that would really make it look like its floating
Thursday, January 10th 2013 - 1:46 PM
I found some Minwax water based acrylic on the shelf. It does dry fast. I put on a couple coats. I needed to get it on quickly so there are a few brush strokes. At least it is protected from dirt and moisture now.I soldered on all the motor and limit switch wires.
I added some screw on rubber bumper feet to the bottom. I moved them in from the edge so you can't see them. It looks like it is floating in the air.
The Digikey order arrived with my little 30mm hot end fan, the super floppy 16awg wire and resistors for my hot bed.
Comment from: greenvandan on Wednesday, January 9th 2013 - 2:20 PMAt work we usually use a waterborne lacquer like Fuhr. It's acrylic based and they dry way faster than the polyurethanes, it can be sanded and recoated in like 15 minutes. They also seem to leave less brush marks etc. I don't know if the stuff at the home stores have those same qualities. I guess if quick was what I was after and didn't have a spray rig, I'd go for a canned lacquer.
Wednesday, January 9th 2013 - 1:28 PM
I'll probably use a water based Polyurethane or Acrylic varnish. I am not looking for a super finish, I just want to prevent stains, etc. The water based versions can usually be sanded and re-coated in hours.What is better poly or acrylic
Wednesday, January 9th 2013 - 4:21 AM
I finished one linear actuator. Two more to go. I have all the parts done except the carriage. I ran out of black filament. It is due tomorrow. Comment from: madmike8 on Wednesday, January 9th 2013 - 3:10 AMBuffing out wax shoe polish makes a quick easy finish for wood...
Wednesday, January 9th 2013 - 2:29 AM
This is the electronics plate, I did a ton of extra unnecessary machining on it to clean up the wiring. This will hold the power supply and Azteeg X3. The motors sit in the square cutouts.Once it is all wired, an acrylic plate sits in the pocket and hides all the wires. You can see the step around the entire perimeter where the plate will mount, flush with the top surface.
I originally wanted to put a few coats of spar varnish on these parts, but I may not have time for that. i may just treat it with cutting board oil.
Tuesday, January 8th 2013 - 1:00 PM
I printed a carriage last night. The center to center dimension on the rods is 48mm. The rods bolt to the end of the central block with one long screw. It uses a thumb screw as the limit switch trigger. That will allow easy adjustments. It also uses the same belt clamp design as the ORD Bot (not installed yet).Tuesday, January 8th 2013 - 4:31 AM
I machined some motor mounts today. There are two HDPE pieces. The one closest to the motor mounts the limit switch and routes the wires out the side. The second piece encloses the wires. It just mounts with one screw, the the MakerSlide keeps it from rotating.The wires are going to go out the side and into a pocket in the electronic panel so you will only see the little paracord cover portion of the wires. The switch is pretty well hidden too.
Tuesday, January 8th 2013 - 4:19 AM
I got some parts for the rods at the hobby store. I bought some 0.210 dia carbon tubes and a couple of flavors of ball rod ends.The top ends are Traxxas 4mm ball rod ends p/n 5347. They have use a 4mm thread for the rod end and a 3mm shaft through the ball.
The lower rod ends are Dubro. They use a #6-32 thread at the rod end and a 3mm (or #4-40 probably) through the ball. They use a separate ball type washer rather than the built in boss of the Traxxas.
I liked the Dubro ball ends better. A #6-32 looks like it will work better with the tubes and the ball washer appears to give more side angle to the rod. I was going to cost about $45 for all the parts, but I found them a lot cheaper on eBay. I bought just enough for a couple rods from the hobby store. The Traxxas are about 1/3 the price.
Tuesday, January 8th 2013 - 12:24 AM
I need to get a sense of scale for what I am building, so I cut the base. I am not sure this is the final design, but it will do for a while.I work next door to a glass place and got them to cut me a 10" diameter piece of 1/4" thick. I will eventually put a heater under it. The material is 18mm baltic birch. It is hard to see, but it is in a shallow pocket.
I made a little housing for the Viki.
The wiring is all done underneath in routed channels. You can see holes where signals can go up the inside of the MakerSlide.
Comment from: SystemsGuy on Monday, January 7th 2013 - 4:16 PMBart, we use something that looks a lot like that, but it's not from Alpha - I'll have to ask exactly what it is. The stuff we use ends up about as flexible as the "high flex" silicon heat shrink. If this is the same, the outer "cloth" style surface has a pretty high drag coefficient - I'm not sure it would be very good if it were rubbing against anything.
Also, if you are looking for some damned nice, high flex cable, take a look at Lapp Cable's "Olflex Number Coded YY Control Cable" - it's damned close to test lead sorta material, and designed for high cycle life. I've used a lot of the 1mm, 5 conductor version for Nema23 motors on moving axis.
Also, if you are looking for some damned nice, high flex cable, take a look at Lapp Cable's "Olflex Number Coded YY Control Cable" - it's damned close to test lead sorta material, and designed for high cycle life. I've used a lot of the 1mm, 5 conductor version for Nema23 motors on moving axis.
bdring wrote:Has anyone used this material? It claims to be flexible woven heatshrink.
Monday, January 7th 2013 - 3:41 PM
Has anyone used this material? It claims to be flexible woven heatshrink.Edit: I tried to buy some and it is about $150 at Digikey. I'll try something else.
Attachements...
FIT Fab 1-10.pdf- (85.84 KiB) Downloaded 1276 times
Comment from: SystemsGuy on Monday, January 7th 2013 - 3:33 PMI think it's a great idea! My Makerslide delta has been up and running for a couple of months, but it's not really pretty - and it deserves to be! I wandered down the Openbeam route with Johann, and it's proven - again - that trying to use extruded aluminum beam as linear rail is just a bad idea!
FYI, there is a working version of Repetier Firmware with delta support in addition to the work Johann did with Marlin. There's also some activity porting to the TI Stellaris and I've been playing with a Due version - don't think either of those will be ready for ORDCamp this year!
FYI, there is a working version of Repetier Firmware with delta support in addition to the work Johann did with Marlin. There's also some activity porting to the TI Stellaris and I've been playing with a Due version - don't think either of those will be ready for ORDCamp this year!
Monday, January 7th 2013 - 1:50 PM
I played with a few design ideas last night and a delta bot in 10 days looks doable. I am going to stop by the hobby shop on my way home to check out their links and rods.I am going to try to do this with only one order from McMaster and one from Digikey.
I will use a bowden extruder to start with. I want to keep the end effector as light as possible. Later down the road I thought it might be fun to experiment with a tiny NEMA 14 at the nozzle working in tandem with a larger stepper at the other end of the filament. That is if I am unhappy with the bowden.
With a delta, you can't hide all the wires because you need to at least power and thermister wires to the nozzle. I am going to use very high strand count "kinkless" test lead wires for the power. That flexibility might give me some more options.
My friend Edward Ford was also invited to ORD Camp and is working on something to bring too, so we having a dual design review tonight. I ran early ORD Bot design ideas past him.
BTW: I got several offers for X3's, so I got one.
. It would have been a crime to use a red hot plate and fugly RAMPS.
Comment from: bloomingtonmike on Monday, January 7th 2013 - 1:03 AMPosted a ink to their RUMBA above.
I backed the Viki too so hope to get one end of Jan. Ill sell the chinese LCD later I guess or in the box of parts it will go.
I backed the Viki too so hope to get one end of Jan. Ill sell the chinese LCD later I guess or in the box of parts it will go.
Monday, January 7th 2013 - 12:54 AM
I am using my prototype Viki for the display. I would rather not use a fugly RAMPS board. Comment from: bloomingtonmike on Monday, January 7th 2013 - 12:51 AMbdring wrote:It is by invite only and the list was pretty filled back in September.
Call for attendance is for next year so I guess 2013 is out LOL.
The reprapdiscount ebay guys got me a lcd in 4 days via fedex. They have a RAMPS setup.
There is also their all in one RUMBA deal that ships Jan 10. http://www.indiegogo.com/rumba?c=gallery
Mikie
Monday, January 7th 2013 - 12:30 AM
I don't have a controller Does any one have an unused Azteeg X3? I will pay for it or replace it when Roy is back in stock. I will also owe you a big favor. (I can be pretty handy at making things)
Monday, January 7th 2013 - 12:24 AM
It is by invite only and the list was pretty filled back in September. Comment from: bloomingtonmike on Monday, January 7th 2013 - 12:16 AM Comment from: canadianavenger on Monday, January 7th 2013 - 12:08 AMyes you are crazy... but in a good way Have fun with it, sounds like a great challenge!
Have fun with it, sounds like a great challenge!
Sunday, January 6th 2013 - 11:22 PM
Edit: I renamed this topic from ORD Camp 2013Time flies, and another ORD Camp is coming in two weeks. ORD Camp is a Chicago based tech weekend. They encourage you to bring something to show off.
Last year I brainstormed, designed, fabricated and built the ORD Bot in a mad dash the week before the event. That is where the name (ORD Bot) came from of course. This year I am getting started a week early and am thinking about what to bring.
I am leaning towards building a Delta Bot style printer using Makerslide. I know there are a few out in the wild, but I would start with a clean sheet of paper (or CAD folder. I guess). I think it would be cool to make a super clean, design with nearly zero exposed wires. It might be a lot to do in 2 weeks, but could be fun. What do you think...am I crazy.
The initial 'high' speed dry run looks real cool. http://youtu.be/R9FepID6rSc
Thanks for your design Bart, although I made some changes on the arms design, most parts are yours!! So credits to you!