Wednesday, March 11th 2015 - 3:31 PMHi! Yes you're correct that only the Y axis stepper needs to be dual shaft. I bought mine from inventables: https://www.inventables.com/technologie ... or-nema-17
There's not a whole lot of mass it's moving on the X axis and with the dual shaft arrangement on the Y, these seems to do very well. The laser head is really always on the move unlike a CNC where to hold position and then put torque on the axis(s) as you cut.
I wouldn't be overly worried about the drivers personally. There's a number of sources for these in particular besides LO. I don't see why you couldn't mix tho I'd personally match XY and not care too much about Z.
Tuesday, March 10th 2015 - 11:00 PMThanks for the kind words. The source code is available here: https://github.com/sshwarts/2.xLaser/
As are all the STL files for the parts I 3D printed.
I used NEMA 17 steppers. 200 step/rev.
I used three of these drivers: http://www.lightobject.com/Mini-2-Phase ... -P650.aspx
I bought a 24V DC 14.6A 350W Regulated Switching Power Supply on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-DC-14-6A-35 ... 3cd0b1c717
The daughter board I built has a buck converter on it to take the 24V down to 9V for the Arduino. It also has a 5V regulator to power the red dot laser target and the relay boards: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E0NTPP4/
I used 22/4 Stranded shielded to go from the Steppers to the drivers and from drivers to AWC-608. For all the internal wiring (not counting 120V), I used 22 AWG. It all runs in sleeves (Techflex 1/8" Expandable Sleeving). Wiring from limit switches was twisted pair (salvaged from ethernet cables).
Ask away any questions!
Monday, March 9th 2015 - 2:00 PMHi. My picture is wrong. You have to take the black pro head, not the plain/silver one. The black head has its entry hole higher up.
You have a choice then, if you want the lens further down then you can remove the threaded insert to the black head and put the silver one in. Or you can use it as is. I'm not sure yet which is better.
edit: I just tried both. I find I like using the plain silver piece better simply because it's less likely I'll rotate the head accidentally when I remove the lens for cleaning. So it's black head, silver threaded, black nozzle.
Then as I had previously written, I made an extension out of plastic (3D printed) to move the actual nozzle down closer to the work.
Thursday, January 1st 2015 - 4:38 PMMy final optics and nozzle are sort of a hybrid. I use a combination of the LO 18~20mm Focus lens Mount <http://www.lightobject.com/1820mm-Focus-lens-Mount-P204.aspx? to hold the mirror and 18~20mm Laser head w/ air assist <http://www.lightobject.com/1820mm-Laser-head-w-air-assisted-Ideal-for-K40-machine-P701.aspx> to give me the lens mount and air assist nozzle. This part by itself won't fit properly in the plate, hence the mash up.
I was never happy with the fact that the nozzle was so far away from the work piece with the 50.8mm lens, not to mention potentially loosing power because the beam was still wide before it go to the waist. So I made on the 3D printer an extension to it. It's available here if anyone wants it:
https://github.com/sshwarts/2.xLaser/bl ... ension.stl
Printed in ABS which should be ok unless my alignment is way off. If someday I have a metal lathe, I'll turn one (anyone want to do one?)
Friday, November 14th 2014 - 5:24 PMI used this one from SDP: A 6Z16-913025
Single Sided .080" (MXL) 913 0.25 Neoprene Fiberglass 73.04 length
If I remember correctly, the length was based on what they had in stock!
Wednesday, November 5th 2014 - 11:40 PMMitch,
My control system is pretty similar. I don't turn on and off the laser psu though just leaving it on when main power is on. I also detect when the laser is firing and keep track of the total time the tube has on it (as well as the particular run). Have to tweak my code though, engraving I found throws it off a bit (sample rate).
Have to add light show LEDs though, only have white ones on the x axis makerslide for visibility . Cool idea.
At one time I was thinking of tapping into the digital ma meter to see if I could get some data out of it to feed to the arduino (via optoisolator).
Saturday, November 1st 2014 - 7:45 PMIt's my modified B17017 (called B17017Rev.stl on my github). Yes,I just added a tab (and removed the hole of the old one). Total standoff height was one inch.
Tuesday, October 21st 2014 - 7:58 PMI bought this one for the air assist hose:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009IM ... UTF8&psc=1
I bought two of them and put them together (in parts) to get the length wanted.
I bought this one:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00880 ... UTF8&psc=1
For the X axis.
Friday, October 17th 2014 - 3:17 PMYea I noticed that (they were out of business). A shame, good price. The local supplier here (and at other locations in the country) is N.Glantz & Son <http://www.nglantz.com/>. This is where my local sign guy gets his panels.
Thursday, October 16th 2014 - 6:37 PMHere''s another view of the Z motor assembly that moves the motor to the bottom of the table area instead of being right up against the tube.
If anyone wants the STL files, you can find them here:
Friday, September 26th 2014 - 6:46 PMI wanted to post where I sourced some of my materials to help other with their build. All of the plastic parts I 3D printed either in Bridge Nylon (any moving related part) or in PLA if I needed strength and rigidity.
I bought Aluminum Composite Panel 3mm Gloss/Matte in blue heron from XP Sign Supplies (xpsignsupplies.com). Because I knew I would be 3D printing panels for the controls and the back AC outlet, I wasn't going to need to do any routing. Any holes I needed to make I made with drill, hole saw, and sabre saw. I had them pre-cut the panels for me and then I just trimmed where needed with table saw and chop saw. Total cost was $91.72 with shipping.
For the air assist, I bought this one:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008IG ... UTF8&psc=1
To run power to the 24V blower and the water pump I used these connectors:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00067 ... UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/Neutrik-NAC3FCA-P ... 2KT6HD5NS0
This is the connector on the back for the blower hose:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AX5 ... UTF8&psc=1
-Air Assist Tubing
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PG ... UTF8&psc=1
There's other sources. If anyone wants to know something in particular, please ask.
Sunday, September 21st 2014 - 7:52 PMBTW, on start-up the touchscreen displays one of two screens:
Sunday, September 21st 2014 - 7:47 PMThanks for the compliment. It doesn't take that long. For example, printing the Z motor mount (the standard one, B17008) takes about :45. Now I can plate more than one part at a time on my 250mmx200mm bed so time goes up from there but given that I can be doing other things while the printer prints, it's a good use of time. Slow is a relative thing. I can start a print job and then go off and have dinner with my wife. This is time I would not be spending in the shop normally. I can't trust the router or the laser for that matter to run without me baby-sitting the job.
Wednesday, September 17th 2014 - 1:50 PM
Enraged wrote:Very nice build!
Do you have any addition info on the Uno and touchscreen? Did you develope it yourself or get the code somewhere?
I built it myself. What it consists of is a Uno, an Adafruit Proto-Screwshield (http://www.adafruit.com/products/196) and a Adafruit 2.8" TFT touchscreen (http://www.adafruit.com/products/1651).
On the protoshield are optoisolators (https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9118) to take the Laser Firing input form the DSP (which is pulled up to 24V, not 5V contrary to what was posted on LO's forum). It also takes the input from the water flow switch. On the output side, there's an optoisolator going to one of the protect inputs on the DSP. While I didn't add it to the code, the Arduino watches the cover switch for example and then could trigger the protect input. Later I might also have the Arduino watch coolant temp and do the same thing.
To switch the various systems, I used these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E0N ... UTF8&psc=1
Happy to share source code or STL files for the case, bezel, etc. if anyone wants it.
Monday, September 15th 2014 - 11:35 PMThis log is a little bit disjointed in that I'm posting it after the fact to help any others who want to take this on. Feel free to ask any questions you might have and I'm happy to share my files, source code, etc.
As I write this, here's what my build looks like now:
I started the project in April 2014 and now in Sept, I'm making my first cuts and finishing up odds and ends. I started by looking as most do at the various others designs (Blacktooth, Lasersaur) as well as Chinese eBay lasers, Full Spectrum, etc etc. I settled on the buildlog 2.x design as the most flexible and I also had some previous experience with CNC machines, 3D printers and even makerslide).
I knew wanted to scale the design a little bit to accept roughly 18x24 sheets so I used the parametric_buildlog_laser tool (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12864) to scale it up and create my list for Misumi.
My other goal was to print all the plastic parts. For the end plates and lens carriage, I was lucky enough to buy a set from one of the users here and all I had to do was sand them a bit and have them anodized.
The plastic parts that would support moving parts, I printed in Nylon so that they would have a little bit of give but yet be strong. The other parts were printed in PLA for rigidity and strength. So for example, this part is the Z motor mount printed in Bridge Nylon (Tauman). I moved the motor to the bottom of the frame instead of the top because I didn't like how close the whole assembly was to the tube and I wanted the tube within a few inches of the first mirror.
Here's an example of where I used PLA. All the electronics is mounted across the rails in the electronics bay. I added a middle rail and then made mounts for each of the items. These set of mounts hold the 24V power supply. In this way I avoided needing a tray for the electronics and the extra weight.
Here's another example. This part holds the water input and output as well as the solenoid valve for the air assist.
Here's the tube brackets:
Here's more pictures from the electronics bay. The part standing up with parts on perf board is my power supply card. It has a 24V-9V buck converter to power the Arduino subsystems controller, as well as the relay modules for the water pump, air compressor, blower, and aux. It also has to five volt supplies. One for the relays, and an isolated supply for the ma meter. The second relay module laying down is for the solenoid valve on the air assist.
This is the front panel area. The AWC-608 controller sits on top. On the front is a touch screen interface to an Arduino Uno which controls the sub-subsystems. It also keeps track of the laser running time of the job and total time on the laser tube. Brought out to the front are all the AWC-608 inputs (Ethernet, USB, USB key) and the all important, "Oh Sh**" button. Trivia fact, the key switch is from a Macintosh Quadra 950 that's been in my parts drawer for going on some 17 years!