Buildlog Title: The GREEN MACHINE

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Builder: artwood_decor

Member Since: 2010-11-04

Wednesday, November 9th 2011 - 2:06 PM

I've been addicted of this forum for about a year now, after participating in a laserbits laser clinic
http://www.laserbits.com/index.php?main ... &chapter=0
Now it is time to start building my machine.
It is based on Bart's 2.x design with slight modifications, for increased working area.

Parts from Bart will ship soon and Misumi + Lightobject parts will follow after.
I have decided to order the laser tube and laser power supply when everything is ready for alignment.

I intend to run the machine by Mach 3 initially, and switch to LO DSP after.

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Monday, January 9th 2012 - 1:59 PM

Received parts from Bart before Christmas. Thank you.
Also purchased:
-aluminum grid for the table
-all necessary belts.
-water pump

Bart, it looks like my e-mail doesn't find it's way to your inbox anymore (tried twice at about 1 week interval).
Apparently you forgot my 200mm black anodized Makerslide.
I will order some more parts from you soon, and you can add it to that shipment.

Lucian

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Thursday, August 23rd 2012 - 11:40 PM

I have the 4 axis stepper driver and planning to use it with MACH 3 for the beginning.

http://www.buildlog.net/blog/2011/08/open-source-4-axis-stepper-driver/

Can I use limit switches with this board?

Is there any diagram on how to use laser PS and this 4 axis controller.

(I have a feeling I am missing something in the whole picture... :?:

:?:

)

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Comment from: bdring on Friday, August 24th 2012 - 12:06 AM

The 4 axis controller is for the drivers only. It does not break out the limit switches.

Friday, August 24th 2012 - 12:56 PM

Thanks Bart.

I have an extra Breakout board, same one I am using for my CNC router.

http://probotix.com/breakout_boards/pbx-rf_isolated_breakout_board/

Can I use it with the 4 axis Pololu controller, and take advantage of isolation protection and limit switch feature?

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Comment from: bdring on Friday, August 24th 2012 - 5:48 PM

I think it will work. The wiring starts to get a little messy. Putting optical isolators in front of schmitt triggers could start to affect the pulse integrity a little. You might need to lengthen the step pulse in Mach3.

Friday, September 7th 2012 - 8:53 PM

Tube and LPS from CNColetech arrived.
I've seen better packaging from other builders.

Fortunately the tube was in one piece.
The Power supply box was damaged, so I'm concerned if it will work or not.
I have contacted CNColetech and they asked for pictures. No answer so far.

: The box was not difficult to fix, but thinking of the shocks it went through to get lige that makes me nervous...

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Monday, September 17th 2012 - 8:30 PM

I have (almost) finished assembling the frame, and realized I don't have the rubber feet.

Found some good replacement parts at Home Depot. I have used 1" diameter. You have to add M5 bolts, washers and nuts.

: package as sold at home depot; surface grip package.jpg (25.53 KiB) Viewed 27324 times

: part is intended to be used with wood screw; anti skid 1in.png (57.98 KiB) Viewed 27324 times

: before assembly

: after assembly

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Wednesday, October 10th 2012 - 3:48 AM

I have aligned the mirrors and fired the tube for the first time.

More details here:
http://www.buildlog.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=1569

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Wednesday, October 17th 2012 - 1:37 PM

Can I use the "motor disable" with 4 axis POLOLU controller and MACH 3?
http://www.buildlog.net/blog/2011/08/open-source-4-axis-stepper-driver/

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Comment from: bdring on Wednesday, October 17th 2012 - 2:58 PM

Yes, I think it defaults to motors enabled if you don't use the feature.

Wednesday, October 17th 2012 - 3:25 PM

Thanks Bart,

can you give me more detail about wiring?
I have wire coming from parallel cable PIN 16, and the terminal block with Dsbl and 5V
As I am reading in the instructions connecting the Dsbl to 5V will disable/enable the motors using an ON/OFF switch.
What am I doing with pin 16?
I think I have to connect it directly to the board, where DB25 female connector pin 16 should go (as I have the terminal block version and pin 16 is in the second row, and not exposed in this version)

Thanks again for all your support.

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Comment from: bdring on Wednesday, October 17th 2012 - 3:45 PM

In your setup you would leave pin 4 of the terminal block unconnected. Setup Mach3 to use pin 16 as the motor enable/disable control. I don't have Mach3 with me right now to verify, but you may need to toggle the active high/low option to get it to work right. Just flipping that back and forth should enable/disable the motors as you do it.

Thursday, October 18th 2012 - 1:25 AM

So where do I connect pin 16? :oops:

:oops:

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Comment from: bdring on Thursday, October 18th 2012 - 2:37 AM

I am assuming you have a 25 pin connector? Is that correct?

Thursday, October 18th 2012 - 2:50 AM

I have the terminal block version (not DB 25)

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Comment from: bdring on Thursday, October 18th 2012 - 3:02 AM

Oh...OK

You can run any unused parallel port output from Mach3 to pin 4 of TB2 (motor disable). I would suggest pin 16 because it might be easier to remember.

Thursday, October 18th 2012 - 1:34 PM

Thank you Bart.

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Wednesday, November 14th 2012 - 9:25 PM

I have received the DSP controller from Light Object. Marco did o great job with packaging and shipped really fast.
He also sent me the latest documentation (manual and software).

Is there a newer version of Tim's Step by Step Setup Guide? The only one I could find is last updated 06/21/2010.

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Tuesday, November 20th 2012 - 3:58 PM

Bart,
would it be possible to share a 3D model of the 4 axis stepper driver?

http://www.buildlog.net/blog/2011/08/open-source-4-axis-stepper-driver/

I am trying to squeeze everything in the electronics compartment, and would like to make some custom brackets. A 3D model would be very helpful. A 2D drawing would be good as well.

thanks

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Comment from: bdring on Tuesday, November 20th 2012 - 5:58 PM

Here it is. Both connector styles are installed.
Attachements...

d16015.zip: (1.01 MiB) Downloaded 1275 times

Thursday, November 29th 2012 - 6:33 PM

I am using the LO DSP controller.
In the schematic I couldn't find how to wire potentiometer and manual trigger button.
Would these functions be provided by DSP controller, so no need for pot. and man. trigger?

this is the schematic I am using:

http://www.buildlog.net/documents/D32018_rev_1.pdf

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Comment from: bdring on Thursday, November 29th 2012 - 7:25 PM

The controller has both those functions on the DSP local panel. You can easily wire a manual fire to the unused Level High/Low that does not go to the DSP. Thee pot is not easy to attach. You would need a way to bypass the DSP signal via a SPDT type switch.

It is not worth the effort in my opinion.

Thursday, November 29th 2012 - 7:44 PM

Thanks Bart,

If Level High goes to DSP can I use Level Low and Gnd. for Manual trigger?
I prefer to ask maybe stupid questions than get the magic smoke out...

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Comment from: bdring on Thursday, November 29th 2012 - 7:49 PM

Yes,

That is correct.

Thursday, December 13th 2012 - 4:16 PM

I have installed DSP controller and all other electronics.
Laser is working, but I have to make SKINS, Air assist and fumes extractor.
Attachements...

: Here it is in the "installed" position.
Hopefully the board will not be in and out too many times, but... for safety, I left a loop with large bending radius for all the cables.

: The electronics board is installed from side, and I will add some hinges in the final version.
I noticed working on the wires is very convenient.

: All electronics are temporarily mounted on a particle board, until I determine the location of everything.
Will replace with an Alupanel eventually.
(USB cable not installed in final position yet)

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Thursday, December 13th 2012 - 6:44 PM

Here is how I have mounted the LCD panel.
Attachements...

: It needed some drilling, cutting and filing.
There are some holes from the previous life of those aluminum angles.

: It is slightly adjustable in height and the location is also adjustable.
It will eventually align with the cut in the skin and will be flush.

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Comment from: baz on Thursday, December 13th 2012 - 10:02 PM

Awesome build

That curved extrusion looks good, I might have to have some myself!

I have just started the electronics side of my build, and I happen to notice you have the same set up as me. LO DSP with Laser Interface Board as drivers.

I have built my board up from Mouser components, I left out some components I didn't need. (But used the schematic to make sure I didn't forget anything important (I traced all the paths on the board etc) I then started to connect everything up; dir and pul, to the associated pins on the board, step and direction. I then fired everything up, after a little tweaking in LaserCAD and 2 blown drivers (that was a hard lesson learnt!) I got a stepper to move. However there was a slight problem, it would only move in one direction. I tried everything but to no avail. The LaserCAD settings are a bit baffling and I couldn't find much info on the support forum.

So, I was wondering if you have managed to get yours to work. And if so, how? Also, would you please be able to share your LaserCAD settings and wiring set up?

I know its a big ask, but I would be really grateful as I am just about tearing my hair out trying to figure the problem :cry:

:cry:

Many Thanks

Baz

Friday, December 14th 2012 - 2:44 AM

Hi Buz,

So, I was wondering if you have managed to get yours to work. And if so, how?

I have the 4 axis POLOLU driver from Bart (not the Laser POLOLU driver)
I have used this schematic:
http://www.buildlog.net/documents/D32018_rev_1.pdf

Also, would you please be able to share your LaserCAD settings and wiring set up?

I can take some screenshots with my settings, however, the best thing you can do is to start a new topic asking for support either on this forum or on Light Object support forum if the question is more specific about LO DSP.

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Wednesday, December 19th 2012 - 4:39 AM

I have calculated the values for all the axis and modified the Distance (um/pulse) in the parameters.
X=5.715 microns/step
Y=6.350 microns/step

However, regardless of the value I have for the Z it will move the table 10mm and the display shows 17mm, when I move to 20mm display shows 34mm

Anyone have experienced this?

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Friday, January 11th 2013 - 6:48 PM

I have moved the Z axis motor to the bottom left side of the machine.
Attachements...

: Tension the Z axis belt

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Saturday, February 23rd 2013 - 11:53 PM

Purchased two 30N gas springs off e-bay and installed them.
I had to make an "L" shape bracket to offset one support and allow the door frame to get in place.
One is more than enough but I installed 2 for balance.
The spherical heads allow for reasonable angle, which was an advantage.
Attachements...

: Door closed

: Door open

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Comment from: j@son on Wednesday, March 6th 2013 - 4:57 AM

would you mind posting the listing for the gas springs you got?

Wednesday, March 6th 2013 - 2:08 PM

Here is the one I used:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3kg-6-6lb-Lift-Support-Gas-Strut-Shock-Spring-Prop-8-8-/370750606795?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5652754dcb&vxp=mtr

The spherical head can be replaced with eyelet if it looks too bulky to you, but it won't allow for angular misalignment.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6mm-Eye-Hole-Diameter-Silver-Tone-Gas-Spring-Eyelet-Connector-2-Pcs-/200856724119?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2ec3fe6297

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Comment from: bdring on Wednesday, March 6th 2013 - 2:22 PM

Those springs look perfect.

The ideal gas spring just adds a little lift and hold open force. Some gas springs can put a lot of stress on the frame.

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