twehr wrote:Be sure to let us know your results.
Well, completed all the rail gluing using the method I mentioned - absolutely no issues. The long 1.5 metre rails had about 7 or 8mm of bend and twist in them.
Both the rails and the aluminium extrusion were cleaned using cellulose thinners first.
The rails were then taped using blue 3M masking tape to the extrusion corner - started at the middle first - pulling the twist out and carefully checking that there were no gaps. Once everything was taped up (doing one rail at a time), I checked the rails were parallel in X & Y to the extrusion using a digital vernier gauge. When happy, dribbled thin cyano (I used Zap - the pink one) down the corner gap first - slowly. When no more would wick in,did opposite end then dribbled it down the top inside corner where it flows under the 'bridge' formed by the tape - let it wick into the joint - topping it up as need as it runs down the rail. Do the same for the inside corner. When complete, remove tapes and wipe down with a cloth dampened in cellulose thinners or acetone - although there shouldn't be any excess if you do it right ! Do the same for the other side of the rail.
This method allows as much time as you like to ensure that everything is aligned before committing to glue.
I tested a scrap piece of rail on an extrusion and couldn't budge it with a hammer and length of hard ash timber.
There are pix on my buildlog - Blackhole.
Subsequent to this, I left the test rail in a poly bag filled with acetone - I was able to eventually pull it off after leaving it overnight - the rail showed very high coverage of cyano over the surfaces - I'm completely happy with the results and can recommend this method (until my rails fall off that is
Not quite as easy as makerslide 'though