Re: Mirror adjustment
Posted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 10:23 pm
I just kind of threw that 12" number out there. I don't have a good way to accurately measure long lengths. I have a decent 24" metal ruler that has 1/64" markings. If it looks good by eyeball to that ruler, I quit. I my be underestimating the accuracy too. I have never even come close to missing the nozzle hole.
As soon as my machine is on-line again, I will try to do a much more accurate measurement. I have a 48" calibrated calipre at work.
It sounds to me like your beam has to be at an angle somewhere. Unless your machine has serious stiffness or warpage issues, that is about all it can be. Try one axis and one plane at a time. Lock your X and work on your vertical Y only. Move it to the extreme far end. Focus on the center. Move to back towards the tube. If the beam moves up or down, to me that suggests the tube needs to move up or down or it is not aiming straight. Next work on the Y horizontal.
The internet is full of frustrated aiming stories, but they usually all figure it out.
I thought my laser was easy. I spent many days squaring and tramming my router.
As soon as my machine is on-line again, I will try to do a much more accurate measurement. I have a 48" calibrated calipre at work.
It sounds to me like your beam has to be at an angle somewhere. Unless your machine has serious stiffness or warpage issues, that is about all it can be. Try one axis and one plane at a time. Lock your X and work on your vertical Y only. Move it to the extreme far end. Focus on the center. Move to back towards the tube. If the beam moves up or down, to me that suggests the tube needs to move up or down or it is not aiming straight. Next work on the Y horizontal.
The internet is full of frustrated aiming stories, but they usually all figure it out.
I thought my laser was easy. I spent many days squaring and tramming my router.