BingLast BuildLog

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BingLast BuildLog

Postby BingLast » Mon Oct 29, 2012 5:43 am

Almost done with the wiring on the ATI Hadron build with dual extruder. I can't seem to find any references on where to wire the extruder fans. Any suggestions?
I'm anticipating problems on the Dual extruder plate that came with the kit. Any suggestions?
Attachments
Z-Axis S_motor.jpg
Z-Axis Gantry.jpg
Y-Axis S_Motor.jpg
X-Axis S_motor.jpg
Work-In-Progress.jpg
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Re: BingLast BuildLog

Postby keos » Tue Oct 30, 2012 5:31 pm

See under forum / 3D printers / ordbot. I think most people use "D9" for the fan with RAMPS.
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Re: BingLast BuildLog

Postby BingLast » Thu Nov 08, 2012 2:20 am

Finally put together my dual-extruder on the gantry. I used the original bracket that came with the ATI kit. I hand tapped two holes on the bracket and two aligned holes on the extruder gantry plate. I've put the extruder as close as possible. In this set-up, I will have to reverse the rotation of one of the extruder stepper motors. Hope that works. Aligning these two extruders is going to be a big challenge.
Attachments
20121107_215346.jpg
20121107_215153.jpg
20121107_180847.jpg
20121107_180836.jpg
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Re: BingLast BuildLog

Postby BingLast » Mon Nov 12, 2012 2:23 pm

keos wrote:See under forum / 3D printers / ordbot. I think most people use "D9" for the fan with RAMPS.


I'm still unclear about the Extruder fan connection. Since I have a dual-Extruder, D9 has been allocated for the second Extruder heater. I would assume that the extruder heater temp is controlled through D9 based through the thermistor.
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Re: BingLast BuildLog

Postby BingLast » Tue Nov 13, 2012 1:55 pm

Tonight I was able to partially wire the two heating elements and two thermistor on to the Extruder gantry. I did not solder the thermistor leads on the wire. Inserted the thermistor leads and plastic into a sleeve and crimped it together then put it in a shrink tubing. Tested the continuity and it was open. I guess there has to be heat source for the circuit to close.
Attachments
IMG_0244.JPG
IMG_0243.JPG
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Re: BingLast BuildLog

Postby orcinus » Thu Nov 15, 2012 3:03 pm

Thermistors are (variable) resistors and aren't particularly suited to continuity tests. The ones used should measure a relatively high resistance at room temp (about 100kOhm at 25 deg C / 77 deg F) and progressively lower resistance as they get heated up.

Also, i'd strongly suggest you wrap the ceramic insulation edges with kapton as well as you can, or you'll eventually end up with flakes of insulation in your prints (that's from my unfortunate personal experience - i've insulated my Arcol.hu hotend and left the edges bare until i realised they shed little flakes and fuzzies).
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Re: BingLast BuildLog

Postby cvoinescu » Thu Nov 15, 2012 11:09 pm

What is that insulation made of?
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Re: BingLast BuildLog

Postby orcinus » Fri Nov 16, 2012 1:42 am

Ceramic fiber.
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Re: BingLast BuildLog

Postby BingLast » Wed Nov 21, 2012 10:16 am

orcinus wrote:Thermistors are (variable) resistors and aren't particularly suited to continuity tests. The ones used should measure a relatively high resistance at room temp (about 100kOhm at 25 deg C / 77 deg F) and progressively lower resistance as they get heated up.

Also, i'd strongly suggest you wrap the ceramic insulation edges with kapton as well as you can, or you'll eventually end up with flakes of insulation in your prints (that's from my unfortunate personal experience - i've insulated my Arcol.hu hotend and left the edges bare until i realised they shed little flakes and fuzzies).


Thanks Mr.O. I wish I could buy kapton tape by the meter here in the Philippines. They sell it by 37 yards per spool for around $50.00
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Re: BingLast BuildLog

Postby baz » Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:38 pm

Hi BingLast,

I have just started my build and was looking at the photos in your first post for some inspiration on my electronic set up. The main problem I am facing is what type of four pin connector to get. The wiki advises to use 4 Pin Molex micro fit connectors, however I can only source them in one place (I am from the UK) and the are pretty expensive. The other problem is that I cant seen to find a decent alternative. So, when I was looking at your photos I noticed you are using a different 4 pin connector to the ones I have seen, it looks similar to a PWM connector, is it?

Thanks,

Baz
ShapeOko #676, eShapeOko #11, 2.x Laser, ORD Bot Hadron
MakerSlide Europe Store
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