Flickerfly's ORD Bot Hadron Build Log

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Re: Flickerfly's ORD Bot Hadron Build Log

Postby rickmellor » Wed Jun 12, 2013 1:57 am

I'm not sure this is Z wobble so much as Z ribbing. The constrained Z axis with the maker slide makes Z wobble nigh-impossible (assuming your eccentric spacers are tightened correctly). Have you read this article: http://goo.gl/ci9Gz ?

We have the same Hadron kit from ATI from the same batch and we both have X3's... I have mine set for 16x microstepping (not required, but doesn't hurt). My ZAXIS_STEPS_PER_MM is 2519.68504 (I calculated it then confirmed with a dial indicator). I've only tried printing at .2mm and .4mm so far. For these layer heights I calculated the step-corrected height as .1984375mm for the .2mm target and I just multiply by two for .4mm height (.396875). When I get around to refining further I'll probably get better numbers than this, but at least they should fall closer to step boundaries and avoid the errors that result in ribbing.

If you're still stuck on this you might give this a shot and see how it works for you. My build isn't having any issues like this... mine are more to do with temperature calibration. I spent all day Sunday creating new thermistor tables for my build.

Here's my second or third print. You can see that I don't have the Z issues ... the specs throughout are from temp being too high, as well as the mid back.

printertest.jpg


-Rick
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Maybe z-ribbing, not z-wobble

Postby flickerfly » Wed Jun 12, 2013 2:26 am

That was an interesting article. I'll try the settings you shared next time I get some time to sit in front of my printer. I'm rather excited about this development. Thanks for sharing. :D
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Re: Flickerfly's ORD Bot Hadron Build Log

Postby flickerfly » Wed Jun 12, 2013 6:48 pm

I gave those ZAXIS_STEPS_PER_MM = 2519.68504 settings a try with a .4 layer height. It does appear to improved some larger inconsistency that was on top of the finer inconsistency. Perhaps I was dealing with both and now I have one less problem. :-) Thank you!

Also, I changed the skirt and the flare at the bottom was made smaller so that solves that and I know I don't have to worry about it. We're slowly making improvements so that's good.
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Re: Flickerfly's ORD Bot Hadron Build Log

Postby rickmellor » Wed Jun 12, 2013 10:50 pm

Do you have a way to verify the hotend temps? I have a multimeter with an external thermocouple that I use to verify. It's important that you confirm this because the temp readings are subject to positional errors. Most people dial it in manually over time, but just checking it is faster.
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Re: Flickerfly's ORD Bot Hadron Build Log

Postby orcinus » Wed Jun 12, 2013 11:15 pm

Having the temp tables accurate isn't a requirement for successful prints.
In fact, you can be 10 degrees off and it still wouldn't matter.

Each filament is different anyways (even batches from the same filament maker can vary a lot) and you need to go through a few meters testing at different temps until you find a sweet spot.

FWIW, i never calibrated mine - i've been using the stock EPCOS 100k tables since day one, despite not using an actual EPCOS.
For a long time, i didn't even bother calibrating the hotend PID values.

It's not the accuracy that's important, it's keeping the temperature stable and finding the sweet spot for your particular filament (and print type).
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Re: Flickerfly's ORD Bot Hadron Build Log

Postby flickerfly » Tue Jun 18, 2013 2:58 am

I finally spent some quality time with the uprights and have much better results. Z-wobble is now largely mitigated and Z-ribbing also. Now I'm playing with temps for the various parts and slicer settings. This image shows the improvement. It also shows some, what I believe is, over-heating of the bed causing the layers to collapse.

Image

I went a bit more adventurous and tried a 1/2 sized version of myself that turned out better than I expected. The green one a friend printed months ago and is there for reference.

Image

I also tried flurin's hair band for my daughter. I have had some trouble getting the ends to stick to the bed. His shows some sort of square anchor, but slic3r isn't doing that for me. It is pushing the boundaries of my printer a bit so turns out to be good for my education.
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Re: Flickerfly's ORD Bot Hadron Build Log

Postby flurin » Tue Jun 18, 2013 8:52 pm

flickerfly wrote:I also tried flurin's hair band for my daughter. I have had some trouble getting the ends to stick to the bed. His shows some sort of square anchor, but slic3r isn't doing that for me. It is pushing the boundaries of my printer a bit so turns out to be good for my education.


In Slic3r Setting>Print settings>Skirt and brim you can set a brim (eg. 4mm), however this will surround the entire object (it's added to the first horizontal shell).
Last edited by flurin on Sun Jun 23, 2013 10:25 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Pretty Pink Kitty Chess Queen

Postby flickerfly » Sun Jun 23, 2013 2:20 am

My daughter turned 7 thursday, but her enthusiasm for the Ord Bot Hadron has not suffered as a result. She made a special request for a Chess Set. I'm not sure where she picked up that idea, but we toured Thingiverse until we found a fun kitty themed chess set that she wanted to try and sat in my lap for as long as I'd let her watching it print. Below is the results.

The one thing I noticed was that the oozing was a problem, as seen in the tail and the layers in the neck corresponding to the tail. I assume that is all ooze related. Any advice on dealing with that better? I'd like to fix that before I print out the rest of the pieces.

Image


Thanks!
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Re: Flickerfly's ORD Bot Hadron Build Log

Postby rickmellor » Sun Jun 23, 2013 5:19 am

What are you using for minimum perimeters and infill? Is it possible that the walls are too thin so on the steep angles there's not enough support for the outer perimeters?
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Ideas for cleaning up the neck

Postby flickerfly » Sun Jun 23, 2013 12:20 pm

I have the default slic3r 3-layer perimeter and the infill was .4 or more on every layer. Also, it was messed up before the rest of the head printed so I don't think it was a support issue. It actually browned the plastic on the back so I'm wondering if there is some sort of heat issue, but it only happened where it skipped between the tail and neck so I had a bit of ooze. Am I running to hot and burning the plastic when it sits in the nozzle rather than running through it?

Edit: As I was looking more closely, I noticed lower on the neck across from the tail that there was actually a line up the head where the plastic was missing. Thinking back, I've also noticed little holes like that in other parts and maybe one per layers so I was wondering if the retraction was overly aggressive and reduced it. Moving it to .75 actually caused what I've seen called "pimples" in other areas of the parts. Seems retraction was not the issue.

Another problems I need to look into is the poor quality of my round parts. They have clear stretches to the back left and front right.
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