Flickerfly's ORD Bot Hadron Build Log

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Re: Flickerfly's ORD Bot Hadron Build Log

Postby cvoinescu » Thu Aug 01, 2013 3:50 pm

Loose belts, loose V-wheels and loose pulleys can all explain the non-round circles. That's probably also what causes the infill not to touch the perimeter, if that's what you mean by "holes". It could also be loose screws -- pretty much anything that moves but shouldn't.

As for your gantry, it's plenty heavy to slide down on its own, so the fact that it doesn't is worrying. Check the V-wheels. They should roll smoothly, and they should be tight but not too tight. As a guide, you should be able to force a V-wheel to turn against the stationary rail with your fingers, but it shouldn't be easy to do so. At any rate, there shouldn't be any wiggle room, but the gantry should move smoothly and without too much resistance. Make sure the V-wheels and the rail are clean -- even a small speck of dirt can interfere with smooth movement.
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Re: Flickerfly's ORD Bot Hadron Build Log

Postby flickerfly » Thu Aug 01, 2013 3:58 pm

Thanks. I've been contemplating taking it all apart, drilling holes for the wire, giving the v-wheels a closer look and that sort of thing. I'll look for some time to do that and get a bit more familiar with my printer.
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Quick Update

Postby flickerfly » Tue Oct 01, 2013 8:07 pm

So the Z-axis hangup seems to have been resolved in me widening the space between the upright extrusions which were causing the wheels to have a dent in them. Also, I found that the material I wedged into the belt clamps to secure them didn't work as well as I thought and was indeed allowing the belts to slip. It worked initially which is why I had ruled that out, but when I finally gulped my pride and went back over my work I found that error on both the belt mounts. I put in a different material that I don't think will compress to resolve that. It's good for now, but I'll watch it. Mechanically, I think I'm all set. I'm now playing in OpenSCAD to build a mount for the X3 that has extra space under it to run wire.

I've attached it as it actually is complete, but I'm trying to add a new feature which I can use to pass zipties through.

Comments on possible improvements are welcome! Also, feel free to steal the modules for the X3 and ArduinoMega standoffs for your own purposes.

(EDIT: I'm keeping this update here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:161946.)

Code: Select all
// Based on Thing #14742: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:14742
// By Josiah Ritchie <josiah@josiahritchie.com>
// For mounting a Panucatt X3 controller in holes for an Arduino Mega/RAMPS
// includes extra

// Some basic settings
standoff_inner_radius = 1.75; // How big a hole should be in the middle of the standoff?
standoff_wall_thickness = 3;  // How thick should the walls of the radius be?
height_x3 = 15; // How tall should the X3 standoffs be?
height_am = 3; // How tall should the Arduino Mega standoffs be?

x3_standoffs(height_x3,standoff_wall_thickness,standoff_inner_radius);
translate([10,8,0])arduino_mega_standoffs(height_am,standoff_wall_thickness,standoff_inner_radius);

// I'm working on a cable mount, this is a work in progress
translate([-10,-10,0])ctmount(5,2,2);

///////////////
// Functions
///////////////

// Make a cable-tie mount
module ctmount(height,thickness,inner_radius) {

  // Inner radius + wall thickness = outer radius of the standoff
  outer_radius = inner_radius + thickness;

  rotate(a=[0,90,90]) {
    difference() {
      cylinder(h=height,r1=outer_radius,r2=outer_radius,$fn=20);
      cylinder(h=height,r1=inner_radius,r2=inner_radius,$fn=20);
    }
  }

  translate([0,inner_radius,-outer_radius])rotate(a=[0,90,90]) {
    difference() {
      cube(size = [outer_radius+(outer_radius/2),outer_radius*2,outer_radius], center = true, $fn=20);
      cube(size = [inner_radius+(outer_radius/2),inner_radius*2,inner_radius*2], center = true, $fn=20);
    }
  }

}

// Make a basic standoff
module standoff(height,thickness,inner_radius) {
 
  // Inner radius + wall thickness = outer radius of the standoff
  outer_radius = inner_radius + thickness;

  // Make the standoff cylinder and remove the hole in the center
  difference() {
    cylinder(h=height,r1=outer_radius,r2=outer_radius,$fn=20);
    cylinder(h=height,r1=inner_radius,r2=inner_radius,$fn=20);
  }
}

// Make 4 standoffs and space them appropriately for an Arduino Mega
module arduino_mega_standoffs(up,out,in) {
  // Arduino Mega mounting holes are at [0,0],[81.5,0],[1,48],[75,48]
  bl = [0,0,0]; //bottomleft
  br = [81.5,0,0]; //bottomright
  tl = [1,48,0]; //topleft
  tr = [75,48,0]; //topright

  standoff(up,out,in);
  translate(tl)standoff(up,out,in);
  translate(br)standoff(up,out,in);
  translate(tr)standoff(up,out,in);

  // Support structure to connect posts for Arduino
  $fn=100;
  linear_extrude(height=1.3)barbell([tr[0],tr[1]],[tl[0],tl[1]],6,6,230,230);
  linear_extrude(height=1.3)barbell([br[0],br[1]],[bl[0],bl[1]],6,6,240,240);
}

// make 4 standoffs and space them appropriately for a Panucatt X3
module x3_standoffs(up,out,in){
  bl = [0,0,0]; //bottomleft
  br = [101.6,0,0]; //bottomright
  tl = [0,64.3,0]; //topleft
  tr = [101.6,64.3,0]; //topright

  // X3 holes are in a square 4"x2.53" (101.6mm x 64.3mm) on center
  standoff(up,out,in);
  translate(br)standoff(up,out,in);
  translate(tr)standoff(up,out,in);
  translate(tl)standoff(up,out,in);

  // Support structure to connect posts
  $fn=100;
  linear_extrude(height=1.3)barbell([bl[0],bl[1]],[br[0],br[1]],6,6,2000,230);
  linear_extrude(height=1.3)barbell([tl[0],tl[1]],[tr[0],tr[1]],6,6,240,1500);
  linear_extrude(height=1.3)barbell([br[0],br[1]],[tr[0],tr[1]],6,6,150,150);
  linear_extrude(height=1.3)barbell([tl[0],tl[1]],[bl[0],bl[1]],6,6,150,150);
}

module barbell (x1,x2,r1,r2,r3,r4)
{
   x3=triangulate (x1,x2,r1+r3,r2+r3);
   x4=triangulate (x2,x1,r2+r4,r1+r4);
   render()
   difference ()
   {
      union()
      {
         translate(x1)
         circle (r=r1);
         translate(x2)
         circle(r=r2);
         polygon (points=[x1,x3,x2,x4]);
      }
      translate(x3)
      circle(r=r3,$fa=5);
      translate(x4)
      circle(r=r4,$fa=5);
   }
}

function triangulate (point1, point2, length1, length2) =
point1 +
length1*rotated(
atan2(point2[1]-point1[1],point2[0]-point1[0])+
angle(distance(point1,point2),length1,length2));

function distance(point1,point2)=
sqrt((point1[0]-point2[0])*(point1[0]-point2[0])+
(point1[1]-point2[1])*(point1[1]-point2[1]));

function angle(a,b,c) = acos((a*a+b*b-c*c)/(2*a*b));

function rotated(a)=[cos(a),sin(a),0];
Last edited by flickerfly on Sat Nov 02, 2013 3:45 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Posts: 247
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Location: Allentown, PA

What a difference a fan makes

Postby flickerfly » Mon Oct 14, 2013 12:34 pm

Wow, what a difference a fan makes in printing ABS. I still have some issues with the top of this very small print. I may just get a fan that moves more air.

Here is an image of how I mounted the 40mm muffin fan to the EZ-Struder, at least for now. It's a simple bit of heavy gauge solid wire wrapped around a screw and through the mounting holes on the fan.
Image

Here is a before and after pic of the print job.
Image


In order to get this far working, I plugged it into the Azteeg's H-END3 on the expansion board and edited pins.h on the Repetier-Firmware to set pin 17 (the pins on the wiring diagram for H-END4 and H-END3 are reversed). Here is how lines 418 through 427 currently appear. In order for these to take effect, I had to make sure I was using #define MOTHERBOARD 34 in the configuration.h
Code: Select all
#ifdef AZTEEG_X3
#define SDSUPPORT false //turning this off due to an error it causes in compiling see: http://code.google.com/p/sdfatlib/issues/detail?id=39
#define SDCARDDETECTINVERTED false
#define SDCARDDETECT -1
#define FAN_PIN           17  // Originally 4, but changed to use expansion board
#define FAN2_PIN          16  // Originall 5, but changed to use expansion board
#define LIGHT_PIN         6
#define BEEPER_PIN        33  // Activate beeper on extension shield
#define BEEPER_TYPE        1
#endif


Note: I haven't yet heard the beeper or light pins or looked into if these settings are correct. They are simply the defaults.
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Location: Allentown, PA

Re: Flickerfly's ORD Bot Hadron Build Log

Postby cvoinescu » Mon Oct 14, 2013 12:52 pm

It may help to turn on the Orbit feature (that's what's called in Skeinforge), which increases the time it takes to print the very small layers, enough for the plastic to solidify properly. It is even more effective with a fan, because the hot end "orbits" around the print while waiting. The alternative, slowing down on small layers, doesn't work nearly as well, in my experience. With the hot end right there, covering the layer almost completely, the plastic doesn't cool enough, fan or no fan.
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Re: Flickerfly's ORD Bot Hadron Build Log

Postby flickerfly » Mon Oct 14, 2013 1:16 pm

Thanks, I was looking for that in Slic3r, but couldn't find it. I did find the slowing down, but I think once it hits the top, it really should have more options as you mentioned. Know where it is?

I was also considering some ducting to distribute the air flow. I printed out the starship cooler on thingiverse, but it doesn't work at all on my setup and I don't see an easy way to modify it. I'm dreaming up some other options. Maybe it's time to start a slicer comparison thread to see why people pick what they pick.
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Location: Allentown, PA

Ooops, g'bye FTDI

Postby flickerfly » Tue Oct 22, 2013 2:29 am

Looks like a released the magic smoke in my FTDI chip on the Azteeg X3. I'd just changed over to USB power and put the daughter board on while the board was powered. Apparently, that is a very bad idea. I guess I need to go find my external FTDI board and do some soldering.
flickerfly
 
Posts: 247
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Location: Allentown, PA

EZStruder Lesson Learned

Postby flickerfly » Fri Nov 01, 2013 12:00 am

Today's lesson is that if the EZStruder gets put on backwards and you try to use the 3mm side for the 1.75mm plastic, it will likely cause the plastic to jam. Don't do that and you'll avoid awkward jams after two layers. Looking back, I can see my last picture shows it backwards.

Also, if you blow yout your FTDI on the Azteeg X3, it is possible to rig up an FTDI Friend (that's what mine from Adafruit is called) to the J2 header and communicate via that instead. Sometimes I have to pull the FTDI friend off the X3 and put it back on after connecting to get it to respond to commands, but it does work. I'll try to replace the FTDI chip later.

Here is that wired up: Image

I soldered some right-angle KK connectors to the bottom of the board so I can mount the wires under the board and make it pretty in the final construction.
Image

I added a connector to my power supply to allow me to eventually run a wire up to the X3 to have the Arduino turn the 12V on and off as needed. For now I just have a jumper on it.
Image

I also made the first print of my X3 mount adaptor. I think I'll need to lower or remove the wire tie mounts entirely since I soldered the connectors on the bottom. Also, I did this on Make Lehigh Valley's reprap which seems to have some belt slippage and I didn't level the bed so it isn't quite right. I may also have the Arduino Mega hole flipped on one or both axis. I haven't figured that out quite yet.
Image
flickerfly
 
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Location: Allentown, PA

Need better belt clamps

Postby flickerfly » Sat Nov 02, 2013 12:26 am

These belt clamps that came with the ATI kit are clearly not cutting it. I'm getting the belt sliding in them again. I tried printing some new ones, but the belt slide seems to be impacting that. I should have don that first thing last time I fixed it.

Anyway, do you guys have any recommendations or mods for improved belt clamps?
flickerfly
 
Posts: 247
Joined: Sat Apr 27, 2013 10:04 pm
Location: Allentown, PA

firmware upgrads, homing working, rewiring and glue sticks

Postby flickerfly » Wed Dec 11, 2013 2:00 am

I finally got my FT231x on the Azteeg X3 replaced. I burnt that chip and was limited to basic serial communication. In the mean time, I rewired the printer running all the cables on the inside of the extrusion that I could. I also mounted the X3 high enough off the back plate to allow me to solder in connectors on the back and run my endstop and stepper lines under the board cleaning up the look a great deal. For that I used the Molex KK series and in conecting the other end of the steppers I used some mini-fit connectors.

I also found Elmer's school glue sticks work much better than the blue painter's tape for my purposese on ABS. I've also started messing with PLA, but that seems to be more touchy about bed leveling so I'm getting a lot of curled up corners with the PLA I'm using.

I had found that the way I configured my Y axis with the endstop had flipped my Y axis so the Y position 0 was actually Y position 200. Once I told the robot to home to Max and had the proper max pin set, it seems to be no longer doing any mirror image printing. I think these are my final settings for the axis at this point. I also attached the whole Configuration.h since I'm sure I've tweaked a few other things I'm forgetting.
Code: Select all
#define ENDSTOP_PULLUP_X_MIN true
#define ENDSTOP_PULLUP_Y_MIN true
#define ENDSTOP_PULLUP_Z_MIN true
#define ENDSTOP_X_MIN_INVERTING true
#define ENDSTOP_Y_MIN_INVERTING true
#define ENDSTOP_Z_MIN_INVERTING true
#define X_ENABLE_ON 0
#define Y_ENABLE_ON 0
#define Z_ENABLE_ON 0
#define INVERT_X_DIR false
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR false
#define X_HOME_DIR -1
#define Y_HOME_DIR 1
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1
#define ENDSTOP_X_BACK_MOVE 5
#define ENDSTOP_Y_BACK_MOVE 5
#define ENDSTOP_Z_BACK_MOVE 2
#define ENDSTOP_X_RETEST_REDUCTION_FACTOR 2
#define ENDSTOP_Y_RETEST_REDUCTION_FACTOR 2
#define ENDSTOP_Z_RETEST_REDUCTION_FACTOR 2
#define ENDSTOP_X_BACK_ON_HOME 1
#define ENDSTOP_Y_BACK_ON_HOME 14
#define ENDSTOP_Z_BACK_ON_HOME 0
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_BACKLASH 0
#define X_BACKLASH 0
#define Y_BACKLASH 0

Configuration.h
Latest Repetier Firmware configuration file
(47.37 KiB) Downloaded 1570 times


I've made a number of modifications to the pins.h firmware resulting in my AZTEEG section looking like this:
Code: Select all
#ifdef AZTEEG_X3
#define SDSUPPORT false //turning this off due to an error it causes in compiling see: http://code.google.com/p/sdfatlib/issues/detail?id=39
#define SDCARDDETECTINVERTED false
#define SDCARDDETECT -1
#define FAN_PIN           17  // Originally 4, but changed to use expansion board
#define FAN2_PIN          16  // Originall 5, but changed to use expansion board
#define LIGHT_PIN         6
#define BEEPER_PIN        33  // Activate beeper
#define BEEPER_TYPE        1

// I have my min and max pins reversed on the Azteeg X and Z axis so that I could add a connector to my endstops on the back, where I could easily solder the connectors on without desoldering. I don't use the max, just the mins so this provides that option and keeps my cabling clean.
#define X_MIN_PIN          2
#define X_MAX_PIN          3
#define Y_MIN_PIN          14
#define Y_MAX_PIN          15
#define Z_MIN_PIN          19
#define Z_MAX_PIN          18
#endif


Oh yeah, one more thing. I've wired up the ATX power supplies power on pin so I can turn on and off the 12V from firmware. I then set the firmware to automatically turn off the power supply when idle the same way it does the steppers by setting #define MAX_INACTIVE_TIME 1200L. Then I commented out #define ENABLE_POWER_ON_STARTUP so that it wouldn't turn the power back on after each reset and in slic3r's printer settings I added M80 ; make sure the 12V power is on to the top of the Start G-Code window to tell it to power on before it tries to move or heat up. I honestly turn that all on manually while I'm getting a print sliced so it may not be strictly required. I like the reduced noise of the power supply when I'm not using it and the energy savings are nice too in case I ever need to get this thing Energy Star rated. :lol:

You've made it this far so... the not quite completely cleaned up wiring looks like this.
Image

and the Azteeg X3 in the dark is a dramatic presence
Image
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Location: Allentown, PA

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