Blah_59's Cerberus

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Re: Blah_59's Cerberus

Postby blah_59 » Sat Sep 14, 2013 1:21 am

I installed the limit switches and ran the wiring. While doing that, I printed these great cable clips (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:135423) designed for 8020.net 1515 series extrusion channels and they worked so well I modified Steve's Azteeg mount to use them.

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Here are a couple of pictures of the new Azteeg X3 mount marrying Steve's original with the cable clips (it works great).

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Then, since I had it mounted, I started wiring up the stepper motors and limit switches to the X3. Now, I just have to give it power and I can see if it moves. Then I can start stringing up the carriages and working on the effector and hot end... :)
blah_59
 
Posts: 158
Joined: Wed Aug 29, 2012 10:08 am

Re: Blah_59's Cerberus

Postby blah_59 » Mon Sep 16, 2013 12:33 am

Big milestones met are: Power, Code and movement...

I picked up an Xbox power supply and adapter cable since I intend, at least initially, not to have a heated bed. I read on someone else buildlog that inside the adapter cable there were: red, black, white and green wires. On mine that was true. They said that the white was hot, green was ground, red was 5V and black was COMMS and to short red/black to trigger power to white/green. On mine this was not true. It's a good thing I pulled out the multimeter first and poked around. It looked opposite on mine (red and black were power and white and green were for COMMS). So I hooked it up in temp fashion with some jumper wire, a switch and the Xbox power supply and sure enough the multimeter showed that white and green go to the switch and I should take red and black straight to the Azteeg X3.

Here's the switch (the red/green is a short stretch of jumper wire, it's connected to the green/white pair on the Xbox adapter (below) under the heat shrink:

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Here's the other side where it connects to the adapter, you can see the red/black pair not quite hooked up yet:

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I wanted to keep the adapter cable in place on the Cerberus and be able to hook up the cable from the Xbox power supply more like an appliance so I took a cable clamp on thingiverse and modified the radius to fit this cable, reamed/drilled the holes so M3 screws would self tap and voila:

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Here's both sides clamped and the red/black pair run to the Azteeg (I've since shortened that wire to only what's necessary):

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With power applied to the brains, it was time I finally got around to stringing up the carriages to the stepper motors. This turned out to be more of a pain than I expected but with a little practice I was able to soldier through and get it done.

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At this point I loaded up Johann's fork of Marlin for Delta bots and started poking around configuration.h (a lot of different options/variables in there than there are on the Hadron). After successfully moving the carriages but not well, I figured out that I connected my limit switches to the wrong jumpers on the X3. With that fixed, next was to get X/Y/Z moving in the right direction...check. Then I started playing with the height to start eyeballing where Z0 is going to be (it looks like it'll be about 450-485 build height), I'll get the right number when I put the effector and hot end together. Then I started a rough calibration of Default_steps_per_unit, the default was 100 in configuration.h, I'm using 32 micro-stepping right now and my figure looks to be about 135. That's a rough number, here's how I got it:

1) Home the printer
2) Move to Z0 (G1 F10000 Z0)
3) Mark the carriage position with a piece of tape on the aluminum upright
4) Move to Z100 (G1 F10000 Z100)
5) Mark with tape and measure
6) Math for new steps per unit, change in config.h, compile, upload
7) Rinse, repeat a couple of times

With that done, I finally epoxied the M3 screws to the 3/8" Steel ball bearings, I did it on top of the plastic pieces holding the magnets to help hold the screws in place while the epoxy cured::

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While screwing the ball bearing into the carriages I learned another lesson. Tapping the hole with another M3 isn't good enough, tap the hole then file it a bit on the far side of the hole (where the screw will come out behind the carriage) then tap a couple times more to loosen it up. The quickset epoxy I used for the job wasn't up to the stress of getting screwed in to a tight hole (I broke 3 screws off the balls before I decided there had to be a better way). Anyway, I got balls mounted in all the carriages now and only need to epoxy 3 more so I can do the effector plate. I also made a quick jig so I could epoxy all the rods at the same length. Nothing special, just two clamps I put on the workbench at a measured distance. Then I could put a ball on the end of each rod, adjust the length of the rod inside the plastic pieces (holding the magnet) between the clamps, then epoxy around the connection between the rod and plastic.

Here's the rods on the printer, hanging on the mounted steel balls:

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blah_59
 
Posts: 158
Joined: Wed Aug 29, 2012 10:08 am

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