Router

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Router

Postby Woodie49 » Sat Jun 15, 2013 3:01 am

Has anyone used this design for a Router?
Thanks
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Re: Router

Postby canadianavenger » Sat Jun 15, 2013 5:08 pm

What design?

If you're talking about the 2.x laser, then it is not really suitable,as it is not rigid enough.
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Re: Router

Postby cvoinescu » Sat Jun 15, 2013 10:08 pm

Neither is the ORD Bot, while we're at it. :lol:
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Re: Router

Postby Enraged » Sun Jun 16, 2013 12:17 am

Makerslide is plenty stiff enough for a small router, check out Shapeoko: http://www.shapeoko.com/
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Re: Router

Postby rickmellor » Sun Jun 16, 2013 1:58 am

Router... you mean like this? :)

ordbotrouter.jpg
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Re: Router

Postby Woodie49 » Sun Jun 16, 2013 2:06 am

Intresting design. Any more information?
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Re: Router

Postby cvoinescu » Sun Jun 16, 2013 2:10 am

@rickmellor: That is cool, and I like the Proxxon. How's the ORD Bot frame holding up? :)

@Woodie49: If you want a router made out of MakerSlide, definitely go with the Shapeoko (or, to toot my own horn, the eShapeOko). The laser isn't nearly rigid enough, and while the ORD Bot is better, it's still not made for strong lateral forces.
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Re: Router

Postby Woodie49 » Sun Jun 16, 2013 2:44 am

Are there plans for the eShapeOko and the Shapeoko out there somewhere ?
Thanks
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Re: Router

Postby rickmellor » Sun Jun 16, 2013 6:41 am

I use this for delrin only and it's holding up well. I run it really slow but it gets the job done. I have a Little Machineshop X2 variant that I use for metal... my Hadron based desktop mill stays in my apartment in Brooklyn where the larger mill can't go. It's perfect for this.

Some details:
* Yes, Proxxon IB/E. I chose this over Dremel because Proxxon does two things nicely: 1) they put the bearing very near the tip so runout is reduced. 2) They have a smoothly turned attach point near the tip instead of the threaded attachment point that Dremel uses. It makes mounting it more precise and more rigid.

* The controller is a TinyG from Synthetos. It behaves very similarly to Marlin in that you can send gcode to it and it'll run over USB. I have Mach3 setup for my other mill and I prever being able to just spit .nc files out of CamBam and blast them over to the TinyG... lets me use my Mac instead of something with a parallel port.

* The t-slot table is made from 10mm MicroRax extrusion. I got some M3 threaded rod from McMaster and I use that for my hold downs. I have a few lengths that I use and can make custom ones if necessary.

* The controller case came from ATI... it's their bare controller case. Inside I have the TinyG, PSU, and an 8-way relay board that's tied to the e-stop. Hitting the e-stop will kill the spindle, kill the axes and hold the controller in reset. I put some window screen on the inside of those vents to trap swarf that falls down. Not a big deal since it's delrin, but at least keeps the insides of the box a bit cleaner.

-Rick
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