Cover Attachment Method

Questions, Suggestions, Tips, Etc

Cover Attachment Method

Postby bdring » Wed Mar 23, 2011 6:12 pm

I was never very happy with the cover design on the original laser. It was big, heavy and flimsy. The gas spring was also expensive and put a lot of stress on the frame.

With the 2.x I wanted the most simple and inexpensive design possible. I attempted this by making it as small as possible, a simple single plane design, a simple over center stop system and full window.

Both hinges point the same way. This was done to simplify the installation. With the cover all most open 180 degrees the cover can slide on from the side. You then attach the stop posts.

This has the disadvantage of not keeping the cover centered, so it can drift to the right. It might rub a little, but it never binds or gets hung up. This was a design trade off that was made during the design.

I tend to be the type who is always tweaking or trying something new, so easy removal meant a lot. Others may prefer the exact centering offered by a left and right style hinge. I would be happy to change the BOM if the consensus says keep it centered is more important. Please weigh in if you have an opinion.

Some sort of hidden spacer could also be designed that keeps the rear bar centered.
Bart
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Re: Cover Attachment Method

Postby twehr » Wed Mar 23, 2011 8:50 pm

bdring wrote:I tend to be the type who is always tweaking or trying something new, so easy removal meant a lot. Others may prefer the exact centering offered by a left and right style hinge. I would be happy to change the BOM if the consensus says keep it centered is more important. Please weigh in if you have an opinion.

Some sort of hidden spacer could also be designed that keeps the rear bar centered.


I like the easy off idea but planned to use the reversed hinges just to keep it in place. You mentioned a hidden spacer that could work. Or just a couple of 5mm x 5mm long set screws (if they come that large) that could screw into a t-nut. Put one right of right hinge and one left of left hinge. Keeps everything in place without detracting visually, as it would be below the surface of the extrusion.

[Edit - now that I think of it, keeping it below the surface of the extrusion would also keep it from being of any use, as the part we need to lock into place is above the surface. :oops: Back to the drawing board.]

I'll vote after I have played with it a bit.
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Re: Cover Attachment Method

Postby cpdude » Fri Mar 25, 2011 4:23 pm

My 40W FSE laser uses a spring loaded hinge pin. The cover stays on when you want it to stay on but also comes off easy when you want it to come off.

I'm definitely concerned that the current 2.x hinge design might result in an accidental removal on the cover. Oops! :oops:

Brian
2.x laser ( Mach3 | SmoothStepper | FSE RetinaEngrave)| DIY CNC Router (EMC2) | Prusa I3 3d printer | Building a Wolfstock deta printer | Rhino v5
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Re: Cover Attachment Method

Postby twehr » Fri Mar 25, 2011 4:41 pm

Been thinking about this while working on the 2.x. The following question comes to mind.

Given the design of the lid stopper, how does the lid open far enough for you to slide the lid off the hinges? If part of that has to be removed anyway, I think we are better off having the reversed hinges so it holds true in normal use.

Maybe I am missing something.
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Re: Cover Attachment Method

Postby bdring » Fri Mar 25, 2011 4:49 pm

You need to remove the stops to go that far. The lid can never come off by itself. I will change the BOM to left / right style hinges.
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