Moderator: twehr
twehr wrote:So, what was the problem you were trying to solve with this procedure?
Either I am not reading/understanding your instructions or you are not understanding the way the controller works and are doing a lot of extra steps. I don't have the 2012 model, but can't believe it is that much different than the previous version.
Please tell us your original problem and I think we can help.
a542002 wrote:hi twehr
I dont know the previous versions but all what I could read in all the foren especially in the lighobject was mostly just about the old DSP and that the new one is in the most parts different.
what I used to work with was the different moshi board versions till I got engough.
now I was unfortnetly and received one board drom the first batch where the USB connection did not work at all. after the second board the one with the network connection I try to make it work but even the settings from the manual what was provided ( it was the one from the old DSP) did not work .even such people as baccus had there problemes because of the new DSP AW 608 just read this in the lightobject forum.
sorry but I know from other people they have similar problemes and I thought I put it out because more and more people change over to this card now.
if you dont like it sorry
greetings
walttwehr wrote:So, what was the problem you were trying to solve with this procedure?
Either I am not reading/understanding your instructions or you are not understanding the way the controller works and are doing a lot of extra steps. I don't have the 2012 model, but can't believe it is that much different than the previous version.
Please tell us your original problem and I think we can help.
twehr wrote:a542002 wrote:hi twehr
I dont know the previous versions but all what I could read in all the foren especially in the lighobject was mostly just about the old DSP and that the new one is in the most parts different.
what I used to work with was the different moshi board versions till I got engough.
now I was unfortnetly and received one board drom the first batch where the USB connection did not work at all. after the second board the one with the network connection I try to make it work but even the settings from the manual what was provided ( it was the one from the old DSP) did not work .even such people as baccus had there problemes because of the new DSP AW 608 just read this in the lightobject forum.
sorry but I know from other people they have similar problemes and I thought I put it out because more and more people change over to this card now.
if you dont like it sorry
greetings
walttwehr wrote:So, what was the problem you were trying to solve with this procedure?
Either I am not reading/understanding your instructions or you are not understanding the way the controller works and are doing a lot of extra steps. I don't have the 2012 model, but can't believe it is that much different than the previous version.
Please tell us your original problem and I think we can help.
Not trying to offend you. It's not a matter of whether I like it - it is whether you are doing way more than you need to. The way I understand your steps, you are recalibrating your pulse width on every job. That should not be necessary.
Gadroc wrote:As Tim said you're not setting this up correctly. As I posted on the lightobject forum the manufacturer parameters and user parameters are stored on the DPS itself and not in the "software". In order to see the setting you are actually using you have to click the "Read" button and when you make changes you need to click the "Save" button. That is what causes those settings to transfer to the DSP and be used for new jobs. In addition in my experience pulse unit does not take affect till after you click Save and then turn off and on the DSP itself. Once you have dialed in your machine theoretically you'll never go back and look at / touch manufacturer settings even if you reformat or get a new computer.
Gadroc wrote:One more item Walt, which is you are correct in the way you fix the sizing which is what truly solves the problems. That is to burn a square measure it and use the pulse unit calculator in the screen to set the pulse unit. If pulse unit is not correct then the size measurements for the range will be off and so will cutting lengths. If you truly want accurate cuts you also have to account for the kerf size when doing the measuring, but that is a pretty small margin of error for most folks.
The steps I didn't see which can cause problems is related to the Read and Save buttons. If you don't use those properly you will possibly mess up other settings. And why I'm posting this is some of your settings in your screen shot don't look right still. The travel distance for a K40 should be about 300 in the X and around 200 depending on where you put your limit switches. Your limits in your screenshot are set to about half of that which leads me to believe something is not configured right on your machine (unless you have artificially set them low).
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