Got my ORD Hadron.. Got some questions..

[bdring]

The "warped" surface near the closed t-slot is on all of the MakerSlide. I have asked the extruder to correct this. It should not affect performance.

The rest of the extrusion should conform to extrusion industry standards to warpage and twist. Here is a good reference for that.

http://www.engineersedge.com/extrusion.htm

If you receive a damaged package refuse to accept it, or open it at the post office. Most companies force you to work it out with the carrier. I have always replaced parts and covered re-shipment at my own expense to save you the hassle. I have even covered shipping damage of boxes that have been obviously seriously damaged and should never be accepted, like holes big enough that half the parts fell out.

If there are holes, tire tracks, etc, please do not accept the box.

[IPvFletch]

Good info guys, and thanks for the comments Bart. I think things are alright as-is, good to know the context though..

Short of an entire electronics setup (yeah yeah), how can I test the motors out manually? Can I hook up 12v or will that make my motors shoot my carriage off its V-rail and across the room, hence being a BAD idea... Or can I somehow negate the motor locking by wiring 2 of the 4 wires together somehow, and let the motor spin freely?? My daughter wants to see it slide back and forth on the rails, and while I CAN do that manually, I have to unhook the belt and that is just annoying to have to do each time, plus it doesn't even test out my motors then.. Thoughts??

[bdring]

FYI: It is probably best for future searchers to create new threads for questions like this.

The motors are 2.8V motors. That is the voltage they can run continuously without a current controlled driver. If you want to 'manually' power the motors you should use a voltage near that. You can apply that to the black/green or blue/red wires. Those colors are for each coil. If you apply to one wire of each coil like red/black, no damage will occur, but the motor will not do anything. They are stepper motors, so the coil will only lock (not spin). Usually the motor will jump a little as it locks, but if the rotor is already in that position it might be hard to notice. In my experience, you usually hear something.

I ran all my wires in one color and did not mark them. I used a power supply set to about 4V-5V (OK for a few seconds) to sort them out later. I just stripped them all, attached ground to one wire, then touched positive to one wire one at a time until I found the match. It only take a few seconds per wire.

[butterfingers]

... how can I test the motors out manually?

If you have an Arduino or other MCU and a few electronic (salvaged?) oddments you can maybe build something like this:

http://www.azega.com/controlling-a-step ... n-arduino/

[frob]

... how can I test the motors out manually?

If you have an Arduino or other MCU and a few electronic (salvaged?) oddments you can maybe build something like this:
http://www.azega.com/controlling-a-step ... n-arduino/

Or get a pair of DPDT toggle switches and wire them to reverse the polarity on each motor coil, then test your manual dexterity by flipping them alternately back n forth really fast!

[frob]

... how can I test the motors out manually?

If you have an Arduino or other MCU and a few electronic (salvaged?) oddments you can maybe build something like this:
http://www.azega.com/controlling-a-step ... n-arduino/

Or get a pair of DPDT toggle switches and wire them to reverse the polarity on each motor coil, then test your manual dexterity by flipping them alternately back n forth really fast!

[IPvFletch]

LOL!!! That would be hilarious!! I bet someone has done it, we'd just have to look on Youtube.. Anyways, I'd still need current. I will look into procuring the PSU as the next item on my electronics "BOM"..

[frob]

LOL!!! That would be hilarious!! I bet someone has done it, we'd just have to look on Youtube.. Anyways, I'd still need current. I will look into procuring the PSU as the next item on my electronics "BOM"..

Got an old flashlight?
2 'D' cells ?

[IPvFletch]

Got an old flashlight?
2 'D' cells ?

Sweet, thanks for the tip. Will give it a go. It will let me mess around with my motors until my electronics arrive..

[IPvFletch]

Oh now I remember one more.. When I put the Y-axis BOT FOOT on the end of the tapped slide rail, it never said what size screws to use. There's no mention on the wiki nor in the schematic PDFs.. I think I ended up using M5 x 12mm because everything else was either too short or too long. I had tons of the 12mm left still so I figured that was a good bet... *shrug* ???

Edit: I just discovered the main frame assembly instructions have you put the other two bot feet on and it clearly calls out M5x12mm so now I know that was correct.

I also planned out my hole drilling, somewhat, at least for the Z from the Misumi main frame.. This is the most challenging so I'm doing it first. I was confused for a while but looked carefully at the drawing/schematic and I see now you are not drilling into the solid part of the misumi, but just next to it where it is the hollow part, and since you have an angle there it will be lots of extra room for the wires.. I am not sure if I want to wire my motor wires together then through with just the 4strand or else send all 8strands through and double it up at the stepper driver (mine will have dual connectors so I'd like to take advantage of that even if it means more wires running in the aluminum). I will drill likely at 6mm then 8mm then 10mm until it's just right.. sound good? I'll use painters tape of course..

Off to Home Depot to get some stuff, including a carpenter's square, and better/smaller drill bits..