Dibloff's Build Log

[dibloff]

Here are some threads I’ve printed. I've made the small trials to make sure I get the desired geometry after printing the large parts.
These are M6x1.25 threads. The thread ID/OD increased for the female thread, and decreased for the male thread relative to the ISO standard. If you look @ the cross section it sometimes seems they do not even overlap.

Here is an M8x1.25 thread.

M15x1.5 thread

M25x1.5. notice the support on the white part. I have not removed it yet. Still the threads are clean. There is no support printed on the thread area.

M27x1.5

[orcinus]

Nice!
What are the M25 and M27 threaded parts for?

[dibloff]

Orcinus. These are all for the same engine. It's a radial engine.

[dibloff]

Systemsguy. Here is my wire routing for the hotbed/thermistor/Y endswitches. It's not really clear, but I promise I'll do a better job for the second printer

The great thing about the helios hot bed that the thermistor's leads are integrated into the pcb traces, so you place the thermistor into the center hole and solder the leads. the cables are attached @ the hot bed edges (close to the power leads). It is an awesome design feature.

[dibloff]

I talked earlier about the popping sound, which can be heard every time I finish a print and the hot bed temperature falls below 50C. Today I had some time and looked up the CTE for borosilica glass which is ~3 to 4 (in different internet sources) while the ABS plastic is in the range of 70. that is why the glass will shed the freshly printed part. the ABS will shrink in a faster rate than the glass, and despite the kapton tape they'll separate.
So for those beginners out there: If you print a large part - more then 20x20 mm contact area with the heated bed - just wait until the temperature drops, it'll remove itself. If you pry the ABS while it's hot you'll damage it.

[dibloff]

The AzteegX3 is connected to my computer via a usb cable. After some glitches I replaced the original USB cab e with one that has a ferrite ring. The ferrite ring is ~ 60 mm from the mini usb plug and represents a considerable amount of unconstrained mass. When the printer is running it can be seen dancing around, pulling and jerking on the Azteeg’s USB socket.

I did not want to wait out until it becomes completely loose. I came up with a bracket design. To further complicate I did not want to use metal hardware to attach the bracket to the makerslide. I designed prongs that snap into the makerslide slots. There are four of them. Pins are inserted to pry the prongs apart and lock the bracket. Here is a xsection of the assembly:

I built the bracket with the prongs facing down. I used hex support to build the part. The ferrite ring is slid in from the slide. The bracket’s arms hold is firmly despite it’s only halfway in.

[dibloff]

During a monster 18 hour print the filament got somehow stuck and the MK7 gear pulling force snapped the filament guide:

viewtopic.php?f=33&t=1567&start=130#p16177

I decided to try a different design.

This one was built upside down (viewing this picture). There are prongs interlocking with the makerslide. Two M5 screws hold it in place.

[dibloff]

I've spent at least 2-3 hours so far with the kisslicer but I can't make it to print. The extruder will not run at all. the print head is doing the movements, but the extruder gear is not turning.
Here are my screenshots. Any comments, any help is appreciated. Thank you!

[brnrd]

I don't use that software but it looks like your nozzle temperature setting is 10C which would not be hot enough to extrude. If your firmware is Marlin, then it would not run the extruder motor below a set value.

[dibloff]

Sure. I see. I've been using sic3r and I set these to 0 so I can start printing @ 175C. I'll adjust and see what happends.

A.