Dibloff's Build Log

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Re: Dibloff's Build Log

Postby dibloff » Fri Feb 15, 2013 3:38 am

It is Thursday. I received the heat sinks from Royco (panucatt devices). Biiiig Thank YOU!
2013_0214_Hadron 003.JPG

These are 12.5 mm long, 10 mm wide and 10 mm tall anodized aluminum extrusions, with 4 ribs. They come with adhesive backing, which should insulate against shorts, but still feature good thermal conductivity. I did not have instruction on how to apply them, so I looked up his webpage. The webpage shows the SureStepr SD8825 stepper drivers with heat sinks. Those are bare aluminum with 7 ribs. I’ve got the SureStepr 82A Stepper drivers. So I used some common sense, peeled off the backing and glued them to the stepper drivers. I made sure they’ll not obstruct the potentiometers and does not touch the pins.
2013_0214_Hadron 008.JPG

Royco wasn’t sure if he’ll sell these separately.
The printer powered up and is running right now. It would be nice to plot the stepper drivers temperature, but I think the hardware/software is not capable for this. I believe I have to come up with an external system for this.
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Re: Dibloff's Build Log

Postby dibloff » Fri Feb 15, 2013 3:49 am

Almost forgot. Happy Valentine’s Day yall’
UPS – check
Insulated enclosure – check
Stepper Driver heat sinks – Check
Enclosure thermometer – Check
As you can see the enclosure is done. As I mentioned before the box is made out of ½” plywood. The front door is 0.1” acrylic, with plastic U shape rails. I filled up the gap between the acrylic and the rails with silicone. The hinge is a furniture type. There are two magnets on the door that snap it shut. I drilled a hole for the thermometer. It is a cheap one from Harbor Freight.
So let the print begin. I’ve chosen a 2 hour print. It’s out in the garage. The temperature @ the beginning of the print was 15C, it is climbing steadily, 1 hour and 15 minutes into the print the inside temperature is 48C.
2013_0214_Hadron 016.JPG

2013_0214_Hadron 014.JPG

2013_0214_Hadron 013.JPG

2013_0214_Hadron 012.JPG
dibloff
 
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Re: Dibloff's Build Log

Postby SystemsGuy » Fri Feb 15, 2013 7:39 pm

Stunning work!!
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Re: Dibloff's Build Log

Postby dibloff » Sun Feb 17, 2013 3:16 pm

Well, 21.5 hours into the big print. Pronterface predicted 4 hours of printing time, but first it was thinking and loading the file for 20 minutes. So really it’s 24+4 hrs… The print started 12.30 pm yesterday. Anyways it should finish around 5pm today.
The first two attempts have failed ~30 minutes into the print. My wife turned on the mixer in the kitchen which is on the same outlet as the printer in the garage. So I thought it was the mixer, which contradicted with my previous findings on the UPS. I restarted and it stopped again, this time after 15 minutes. I realized that the chamber temperature went above 50C in the meantime, which probably rendered the controller unresponsive. After I took off the painters tape strips from the door gaps the temperature stabilized @ 45C.
2013_0216_Hadron 005.JPG

The part now is ~80 mm tall, and covers roughly 60% of the tray. The heated bed is insulated from the bottom, so not much heat escapes from the heated bed. The ABS is a bad conductor of the heat. All of the above caused the temperature in the chamber to stabilize @ ~39C. This lead to cracking on the part. It’s unfortunate, but I have to live with it. The perfect solution would have been to rewire the printer and move the controller and PS outside the chamber. Then the chamber could be heated up to 50-70C which would have prevented cracking.
The printer is in the garage where the temperature is 14C. I had not desire running out every 10 minutes and checking on the printer - especially because it was printing overnight - so I decided to use my small wireless camera and a display. It worked pretty well.
2013_0216_Hadron 002.JPG

2013_0216_Hadron 008.JPG
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Re: Dibloff's Build Log

Postby SystemsGuy » Sun Feb 17, 2013 4:24 pm

That is a *massive* piece! :-) It's a shame you have to do it in ABS - PLA would be much easier.

I really like the chamber you have built, and plan on incorporating it into my future printer design as well. I'm seriously considering my "UglyOrdBot" chassis inside a box like yours with a single cable feed - all the electronics, power supply, everything outside and just run a cable back in to drive things...
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Re: Dibloff's Build Log

Postby dibloff » Mon Feb 18, 2013 3:38 am

Hi Systemsguy. I've been using ABS from the very beginning. That's all I ever used.
The print actually ran for 30 hours and 36 minutes. About +2 hours relative to Pronterface prediction.
The part cracked all over the place, through the entire thickness. Same as before when I did not use a chamber at all.
Looks like the 40C chamber temperature was just not enough.
If you plan on building a chamber I recommend just what you said. Make sure your controller and PS is outside and have a logic controlling the chamber temperature. You'll probably need 60C+ inside the chamber to prevent cracking.
dibloff
 
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Re: Dibloff's Build Log

Postby fma » Wed Feb 20, 2013 6:20 am

Try to reduce print speed. Also, increase the nozzle temp. as much as you can, as long as the ABS does not turn yellow... I'm printing at 260°C with the last ABS I ordered... But you need a good hot-end ! (I just designed a mounting part in metal, and asked Shapeways to print it in stainless steel).
Frédéric
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Re: Dibloff's Build Log

Postby SystemsGuy » Wed Feb 20, 2013 12:32 pm

You should give PLA a shot if you don't absolutely have to have ABS. It's a hell of a lot more forgiving than ABS with parts that large - I've done something about the same size as yours in PLA, and it worked just fine. I did do it with *very* low infill - on the order of 10%. It was for a client, so I can't share pictures.

I had pretty much convinced myself based on our Objet printers that the temperature was going to have to be higher - I think you need to be pretty close to the glass transition temperature of the plastic, and then manage the cooling process as well.

I've got a bowden setup I'm testing - I want to have no printed parts in the chamber other than the part I'm printing - and the extruder is really the last piece. I *think* I'd be safe with ABS not getting too soft at 60-80, but I think it would be marginal. My down and dirty test was going to be using a MOSFET and thermister connected to an arduino for chamber control. If it works, I could drop to an ATTiny and drive it with an MCode from Marlin without a whole lot of trouble - or at least that's my clever plan.


dibloff wrote:Hi Systemsguy. I've been using ABS from the very beginning. That's all I ever used.
The print actually ran for 30 hours and 36 minutes. About +2 hours relative to Pronterface prediction.
The part cracked all over the place, through the entire thickness. Same as before when I did not use a chamber at all.
Looks like the 40C chamber temperature was just not enough.
If you plan on building a chamber I recommend just what you said. Make sure your controller and PS is outside and have a logic controlling the chamber temperature. You'll probably need 60C+ inside the chamber to prevent cracking.
SystemsGuy
 
Posts: 250
Joined: Sat Dec 29, 2012 7:44 am

Re: Dibloff's Build Log

Postby dibloff » Thu Feb 21, 2013 2:10 am

Guys. Thanks for all the suggestions.
I finally ordered some PLA. I'll run some tests once it's here.
I also replaced the kapton tape on the glass first time. This is pretty good stuff. I've been printing on it for 4-5 weeks.
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Re: Dibloff's Build Log

Postby dibloff » Thu Feb 28, 2013 3:36 am

I received the PLA last saturday. Amazon shipped it in two days!!!
I tried a few prints but not much luck.
- I tried 165-175-185C temperatures.
- It was sticking to the kapton tape too much (@ 60C bed temperature)
- I think it clogged the extruder after a while.

I beleive I have to use something other than kapton tape for the bed when printing PLA. I'm not sure about the extruder temperature either. The Pronterface default is 185, but it still clogged the extruder.
Again. there is just too much information out there, and it's hard to figure out which one is right.
Any ideas why is it clogging the extruder? I read somewhere that one should run the extruder for 300 !!! seconds when switching from ABS to PLA?
Whisdom-Tenacity-Focus???
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