Glass Bed No Stick

[fma]

You can use normal clear enamel spray out of spray can, you get at any hardware or paint store. Nothing special. I have used it on glass and it is OK, but when you print ABS there are a lot of forces trying to lift off the bottom layer, particularly with parts with a large foot print. The ABS will bond to the enamel layer, but the enamel layer can lift off the glass because it does not bite into the shiny surface as well. Also, the ceramic needs to be heated only once before the print and not during the print. Reason being, glass will expand and contract much more during heating and cooling then Ceramic. If you let the glass cool down to much during the print, the part will come off. This will not happen with a ceramic bed. I guarantee it.

Thanks for the explanations!

[SystemsGuy]

Gyro - would you mid posting a video of printing on your ceramic surface? I'm tempted if you can get me a round one for my delta, but I'd like to see how it works...

I've got a piece of borosilicate on the way - but I think the ceramic would "look" better!

Get yourself one of my ceramic print beds and you will have no more problems
http://www.ebay.com/itm/130836386802?ss ... 1558.l2649

Do you mean that such bed is the ultimate solution?

What enamel spray do you suggest? Is the spray or the bed itself which does the job? What about enamel spray on glass?

You can use normal clear enamel spray out of spray can, you get at any hardware or paint store. Nothing special. I have used it on glass and it is OK, but when you print ABS there are a lot of forces trying to lift off the bottom layer, particularly with parts with a large foot print. The ABS will bond to the enamel layer, but the enamel layer can lift off the glass because it does not bite into the shiny surface as well. Also, the ceramic needs to be heated only once before the print and not during the print. Reason being, glass will expand and contract much more during heating and cooling then Ceramic. If you let the glass cool down to much during the print, the part will come off. This will not happen with a ceramic bed. I guarantee it.

[cvoinescu]

I've got a piece of borosilicate on the way

Where did you buy it from?

[SystemsGuy]

Cambridge Glassblowing - just up the road for one of our facilities - we use 'em for glassware in the lab.

I've got a piece of borosilicate on the way

Where did you buy it from?

[fma]

Another question about ceramic bed: is it as flat as a glass? It is very important when printing with small layers (0.1mm)...

[cozmicray]

Systemsguy
Looks like you print PLA on blue tape.

I started out with white PLA with little success
I guess with more experience with my Ordbot. I'll go back and try some PLA.

What are your Slic3r settings for PLA?

Tnx
Ray

[SystemsGuy]

what setting are you looking for Ray? I have a different profile for most of my spools, for example?

As I said in my long winded post, I print PLA both on blue tape and directly on glass. Glass requires a lot more heat, but give a "glossy" finish. I then to print on tape 'cause I can do it cooler and a lot faster...

I personally find ABS more straightforward that PLA - apply Kapton tape, set the bed to "nuke" (110c), and print!

Systemsguy
Looks like you print PLA on blue tape.

I started out with white PLA with little success
I guess with more experience with my Ordbot. I'll go back and try some PLA.

What are your Slic3r settings for PLA?

Tnx
Ray

[gyrogearloose]

Another question about ceramic bed: is it as flat as a glass? It is very important when printing with small layers (0.1mm)...

Yes, it is a flat as glass, but the surface is more porous, which is an advantage.

[nixtacy]

Yes, it is a flat as glass, but the surface is more porous, which is an advantage.

What's the 'advantage'? You still have to apply an intermediary product to get something to stick.

Why not use milled aluminum? It'll be lighter, cheaper, and stronger. (that ceramic piece is more expensive then glass or aluminum too)
Aluminum will also have better thermal properties then glass or ceramic (both are better insulators), and with a little scotchbrite, it too will have a moderately porous surface.

[SystemsGuy]

Can you tell us how flat? Flatness is relative - the borosilicate I'm using is < 25 µm over 75mm x 75mm. This is extreme, and I only used it cause I didn't have to pay retail for it.

How much does the ceramic weight?

Would you be so good as to video your printer printing a flatness test at .1mm and .2mm for comparison?

Yes, it is a flat as glass, but the surface is more porous, which is an advantage.

Nixtacy - NopHead of Mendel90 fame tried and gave up printing on aluminum as I recall - I think it was just more expensive when compared to boro or other glass surfaces unless you were able to mill it yourself. I suspect that weight and thermal expansion figure in as well...

What's the 'advantage'? You still have to apply an intermediary product to get something to stick.

Why not use milled aluminum? It'll be lighter, cheaper, and stronger. (that ceramic piece is more expensive then glass or aluminum too)
Aluminum will also have better thermal properties then glass or ceramic (both are better insulators), and with a little scotchbrite, it too will have a moderately porous surface.