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Here are files for recent silver PLA printing on my Ordbot Hadron

Slic3r file

Marlin files
config.h , config_adv.h

Thanks for all the help guys

Ray

Ray, what leadscrews are you using? Something other than M8's?

They are from ATI
M8s at least the best nut to fit them is a M8 nut

I have set mm/step to all kinds of different settings
tested my ATI OrdBot Hadron with digital depth guage

Looks like 2570 is the setting for my printer

I have results in a spreadsheet and can do them again

See viewtopic.php?f=33&t=1578


I just noticed on a failed print
Air shots ( squirt out of PLA from above nothing) the diameter 0.50 - 0.55 mm
shouldn't it be closer to 0.4mm?

Tnx

Not necessarily. It varies a lot with extrusion speed and PLA brand/kind.
I get close to 0.5 with an 0.35 nozzle sometimes, if the pressure is high (fast extrusion) and the PLA used has a large swell.

Ray, I guess it's possible you have some non-standard M8 rod, but if I check my maths, I get 2560, and that's what I'm running. M8's rods I have - checked with a thread gauge are 1.25. I'd really suggest checking yours, as I've had loads of M8 threaded rod, and never seen it in anything other than 1.25..

2560 = (((360/1.8) * (1/(1/16)))/1.25h)*(1 / 1)

cozmicray wrote:They are from ATI
M8s at least the best nut to fit them is a M8 nut

I have set mm/step to all kinds of different settings
tested my ATI OrdBot Hadron with digital depth guage

Looks like 2570 is the setting for my printer

I have results in a spreadsheet and can do them again

See viewtopic.php?f=33&t=1578


I just noticed on a failed print
Air shots ( squirt out of PLA from above nothing) the diameter 0.50 - 0.55 mm
shouldn't it be closer to 0.4mm?

Tnx

Here is image of spreadsheet of my steps per mm testing

Digital dial gauge measurement at commanded z positions

I will do them again --- got a particular way to do it
set parameter in eeprom
or change marlin code and re-compile
or M codes?




What does the 1.25 mean?
How can I measure threaded rod without thread gauge
count threads per inch -- mm?

Tnx

The 1.25 refers to the nominal pitch of standard M8 threads.
i.e. if you turn the nut 1 revolution it is supposed to move 1.25mm along the rod.

In any case, 2570 vs 2560 will not make a radical difference in your prints.
It is less than half a percent.

Getting your flow off by 10% even will not make a print truly "cruddy".

No, but errors do tend to accumulate - if you look at his prints, the layer separation is pretty bad. I'm open to suggestions here as to what else would help him get a good print..

I feels to me like the layer height is off, and e-steps are too high - but the surface infill on at least one of his prints is too sparse!?

Try this config - it's going to seem slow are molasses, but I'm curious to see the effect on your prints. You may want to re-enable cooling, but I have it turned off to avoid slowing the layers down even more..

Try one of the squares I attached earlier - no need for anything complicated.

roberlin wrote:The 1.25 refers to the nominal pitch of standard M8 threads.
i.e. if you turn the nut 1 revolution it is supposed to move 1.25mm along the rod.

In any case, 2570 vs 2560 will not make a radical difference in your prints.
It is less than half a percent.

Getting your flow off by 10% even will not make a print truly "cruddy".

Test prints
with original config
37.5 x 37.5 mm square
40 x 40 mm square







with Test config

40 x 40 mm square
ET 228C BT 100C (measured 74C)
feed 100 flow 75 Fan on 46% layer 37
out 38.76x39.04 in 36.34x36.86 measured digital caliper

37.5 x 37.5 mm square

ET 228C BT 100C (measured 74C)
feed 100 flow 75 Fan on 46% layer 7
out 36.34x36.46 in 34.05x34.49 measured digital caliper








Lots of other pics and notes

Thanks
Ray

What's the purpose of doing so many test prints? The only test prints I do nowadays are the one in the slic3r calibration wiki and then a small test for bridges. The x, y and z steps per mm can be calculated easily. No need to waste any plastic just to figure them out. Once all the steps per mm are calibrated properly, then you just need to play around with speed and temperature to get bridges to come out right.

BTW, M8 can also come in fine pitch (1 mm) in addition to 1.25 mm. There are also 2 pitches for 5/16" threaded rods: 18 tpi and 24 tpi. So, if the threaded rods measure around 8 mm in diameter, then that gives only 4 possibilities which should be easy to tell apart with a caliper.