Print problems

[enmity]

Okay so my hadron is built and wired up, changed the config file in marlin to correspond with the wiki instructions. I have a qu-bd extruder modified with an mk7 gear, bart's improvements and I'm also using slic3r v.9.8. I'm trying to print a calibration cube but its coming out kind of weird, as far as I can tell the top looks like its very well printed but the corners are bowing towards the middle Ive been messing with the slicer settings but its still coming out the same. Can anyone point me in the right direction as to where to look so I can fix it? whether is mechanical or software. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

[brnrd]

Is this ABS? How fast are you printing? Since this is a small part, you need to turn on the cool option in slic3r to slow down if the layer takes less than 20-30 seconds. It looks like it's laying down another layer while the previous layer is still soft. For ABS, slow down works for this size part. For PLA, you may need a fan or slow down the layer to 40 s or longer.

[SystemsGuy]

Same questions as brnrd - what plastic is that, do you have a fan, and whats your HPB temperature?

[Kellerkind]

Did you mess with the slicer settings a lot? in my experience even the defaults ( after steps/mm & Filament diameter calibration of the extruder) kind of work out well...

[enmity]

Fan was on 100 percent while printing abs at 220 deg. slicer settings are mainly default except for the retraction and extruder changes but it looks like I figured out what was wrong. There was a problem with the thermistor on the hotbed so the hotbed was at 200 deg c so the filament didn't harden before beginning the next layer

[orcinus]

Woah, what kind of a heated bed are you using and how many amps are you driving through it?
I think it'd take mine half an hour to reach 200+ C (asymptotically) at 11-12A.

[enmity]

HA! yea it took about 40 minutes to heat up to 200 c. I'm using the helios heatbed this is my first printer so I didn't know better. The heat up time should have been a clue, I had to take it to work to verify the temperature on the equipment we have there. I purchased the thermistor on ebay and the seller gave me a b.s. part number so the temp tables were way off so I'm dialing the temp down in the slic3r settings to compensate for the fluctuation which seems to be linear until I get the time to make some new tables made.

[brnrd]

What kind of power supply are you using? I didn't think that you can reach 200C with a 12V power supply on the Helios.

[roberlin]

Speaking of which, is it safe to use 24v on the Helios?
I had blindly assumed no (since there is no mention of it on the webpage), but now I find myself wondering... I mean it seems like the temperature regulation should prevent total meltdown (when it's working)....

[orcinus]

No idea, but logic (mine at least) suggests it should work fine.

Higher voltage for the same resistance will result in a higher current. Voltage isn't a problem, since the breakdown voltage of the PCB is an order (or orders) of magnitude higher at distances involved (a few kV/mm?). That leaves the current, which is a problem only due to heat, which is regulated (when it works, as you say), so that isn't a problem either. In conclusion - i don't see why it wouldn't or shouldn't work with a 24V PSU.

(You will, however, most probably fry the LEDs.)