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Hi all,

I'm new to buildlog and ordbots, but not to DIY 3D printers (4 reprap builds, AO-101, cupcake, up mini, and replicator 1 and 2 experience).

I purchased a reprap discount ORDbot kit + RUMBA + smart controller and my package came with 6 cool looking mechanical endstops like the one pictured here (3 are labeled MIN and 3 labeled MAX).



My problem: I can't figure out how and where they mount! The standard ORDbot mounting positions don't work for these switches.

Most mechanical endstop designs use the holes that go through the body of the switch for mounting, but these look like I should be using the holes through the PCB which orient the switch 90 degrees away from what I'd consider normal operation of a mechanical end stop.

I'd love to use these switches (they have little LEDs that light up when they're activated - that's not only cool looking, but will help with calibration!).

Anyone out there have a guide for how they should be mounted?

It is hard to determine how large that is. Can you make a 3D model? Here is the first thing that comes to mind. I would use standard limit switches for X and X. They do not need to be calibrated and it is less wires for a std switch. For Z I might mount it on a block below the carriage and mount a screw in a block to the carriage for fine tuning.

Hi Bart,

From your response I take it that this might be a first sighting of these things? That's exciting...

The cases they come in are labeled FOR ORD BOT ONLY and MIN or MAX, the PCBs are labeled MIN and MAX as well.

for scale:
the three posts are standard 0.1" (2.54mm) pitch

the rectangle pcb is 35.3mm x 13.9mm

the mounting holes are about 3.7mm x 5.7mm and are about 22mm apart (on center)

the switch body itself is 5.7 x 12.6 x 6.1mm high and is located 2.7 mm from the nearest long edge and 7.7 mm from the nearest short edge

I'll see if I can draw something up later this holiday weekend.


Here is an image of the other side, illustrating the remaining components (looks like an LED, two resistors, and a capacitor).

Millions of ways to mount it -- use imagination

@cozmicray
hah, sorry maybe I wasn't clear - since this appears to be a purpose built part for ORDbot, I was trying to see if there was a standard mounting for it because the pre-drilled holes and hardware in the reprap discount kit don't seem to suggest an existing way to mount these things.

I wanted to see if there are instructions before I go ahead and go through the effort of design/building a mount that might already exist!

But it looks like these things are new, so I'll have to come up with something. I like Bart's idea of using standard switches for X and Y for now (I've got loads) and concentrating on the Z.

Who sez they are "for Ordbot"?

Are they for Ordbot Quantum or Hadron

I don't think the Ordbot needs anything unique or special.

Why does a micro switch have to have Grnd, VCC, out,
are they optical or hall effect?

My Hadron works great with common micro switches (gnd, NC, NO)
and even mounted so the micro switches don't move so wires don't get exercised and break.

Have fun with the "special" "For Orbot Only" switches
I wonder what they would do if mounted on a Mendel, or Reprap --- get rejected?

coz and Bart:

I didn't order these, they just came with my ORDBot kit.

This should explain why I say that these seem purpose built for ORDbot.

I have never seen those before. I am sure a little hacking would make them fit. Ultimately I am not sure what they gain you other than the LED and a little less soldering. If they were a true drop in piece, that would be ideal.

Sacha, did you come up with a solution for the limit switches?
I have just received my Hadron ORB from reprap discount and have the same problem.
Cant seem to figure out how to use the switches that came with the kit?!

Hi Sacha, I second the above question - I received the same endstops from Reprapdiscount ... where did you end up mounting them? I was wondering if you could take some pictures. Another question is why 6 endstops were provided - as I understand it, you only really need 3 as the firmware can identify where the other end is?