ORD Bot Hadron Inquiries - Help Appreciated

Topics Related to the ORD Bot Printer

Re: ORD Bot Hadron Inquiries - Help Appreciated

Postby rickmellor » Sun Aug 25, 2013 11:25 pm

It's really hard to tell from that ad if all the hardware is included. Maker Geeks also has it so you might ask them if their extruder has all the hardware: http://www.makergeeks.com/waexre.html They do sell a fully assembled model: http://www.makergeeks.com/waexrefukitr.html. I'm sure if you ping those guys they'll either have all the hardware in the kit already or they'll be willing to include it for you.

It does look like the hobbed bolt in the link you posted will work... it doesn't have to be knurled, hobbed alone will be sufficient.

The extruder will be compatible with 1.75mm if the idler wheel can apply pressure to the filament while it's in the hobbed groove. If they hobbed it too deep then it won't work because the idler will ride on the bolt shoulder. I'd be surprised if you run into this issue. Most likely they're extolling 3mm performance because it takes more force to extrude it.
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Re: ORD Bot Hadron Inquiries - Help Appreciated

Postby cvoinescu » Mon Aug 26, 2013 12:46 pm

While it's true that 3 mm filament needs more force, with that extruder and hot end, there's no difficulty with 3 mm filament. Where I live (UK), 3 mm filament is somewhat cheaper to a lot cheaper than the same volume or weight of 1.75 mm filament. With a geared extruder and a 0.35 mm nozzle, there's no issue with extrusion accuracy with 3 mm filament. That extruder is still more precise with 3 mm filament than a direct-drive extruder with 1.75 mm filament, so you're good.

You don't need any PTFE beyond what's already in the PEEK barrel. The PEEK barrel of the hot end (black part in the picture) is all the heat insulation you need. To mount it to the extruder, simply insert it into the opening at the bottom, and put two M3 screws into the holes provided, so that they engage the groove at the top of the PEEK part and retain the hot end. Alternatively, there's a mounting plate that you can buy, but it's useful only if you change hot ends often. I have one but I don't use it.

You chose the right hot end, but I don't recommend the cartridge. It's a good millimeter smaller than the hole in the hot end, and much longer. Most of the heat will not reach the hot end. For the J-Head, stay with the resistor. You can buy the exact same type from Digikey. For 24 V, you need anywhere between 20 and 25 ohms.
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Re: ORD Bot Hadron Inquiries - Help Appreciated

Postby JLG » Mon Aug 26, 2013 10:33 pm

Alrighty, Shopping List 2.0

Extruder:
Greg's Wade Reloaded - http://www.makergeeks.com/waexrefukitr.html
(No hot end but assembled including stepper motor, he was very helpful, RECOMMENDED)
J-Head 0.35mm orifice for 1.75mm filament + thermistor -
https://www.hotends.com/index.php?route ... duct_id=88
Heat cartridge 6mm dia. 24v - http://item.mobileweb.ebay.ca/viewitem? ... 0560764011

Heatbed:
MK2B 24v and thermistor - http://www.reprapdiscount.com/electroni ... d-bed.html
Tempered Glass 3mm thickness - http://trinitylabs.com/products/borosil ... -for-prusa
(just an example for the sake of a visual, I'll probably get something local).
Kapton Tape for glass - http://item.mobileweb.ebay.ca/viewitem? ... 0864710486
(I hear this is good for protecting glass from damage and helping the piece to stick better).

ORD Bot Hadron Assembled Mschanical Platform:
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem ... 0981613057

Controller + 4x DRV8825 Stepper Drivers + Heat Sinks:
http://www.panucatt.com/Azteeg_X3_repra ... ax33dp.htm

Limit Switches:
http://ca.mouser.com/Search/m_ProductDe ... 50F15CD1-Z

Power Supply:
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem ... cmd=VIDESC
(I decided to go safe on the Power Supply, I'd rather have way more then enough then just enough, I've seen
many a PSU fry components in my time working at a computer store, lol)

So how's that look to you guys? Theory all sound?

QUESTION: what factors make high-end 3D Pronters better then the ord bot? That's why I've been inquiring about things like 0.9 degree stepper motors, thinner otifice hot end, and thinner filaments. Just trying to learn the theories to see if I could possibly implement some of my own designs.
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Re: ORD Bot Hadron Inquiries - Help Appreciated

Postby rickmellor » Mon Aug 26, 2013 11:39 pm

Looks good to me. You'll also need wire spools, heat shrink tube, etc. to wire everything up but you'll determine those needs once you get your parts and decide how you want to route the wires.

When it comes time to apply that 200mm kapton this trick works well: http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... NQ0WhonnBM

Regarding your question ... comparing something like a Stratasys 1200es or better to an ORD Bot is a whole 'nother topic. ;)

Good luck with your build!

-Rick
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Re: ORD Bot Hadron Inquiries - Help Appreciated

Postby JLG » Tue Aug 27, 2013 1:11 am

Thanks again, guys. Really appreciate the help! I feel like a combination of you two and google have given me more knowledge then three years of schooling :-)

I will post once I've received my parts, could be a whole though. I will look around for whatever else I need (apparently I need some heavy duty wire for the heat cartridge and heatbed), so I'll ask if I have any questions. I'll definitely post when I receive my parts. And I'd like to do a through, idiot-proof tutorial for other people that find the vast clumps of spotted technical knowledge spread across the Internet confusing, like me. I'd LIKE to do it, doesn't mean I'll be successful at it, lol.

Well thanks again, and ttyl

- Jeff
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Re: ORD Bot Hadron Inquiries - Help Appreciated

Postby rickmellor » Tue Aug 27, 2013 1:16 am

When selecting wire gauges you should go with whatever is recommended by the MFG, or you can look it up with something like this: http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm Also check your wires once you're done. If they get too warm to the touch while running you need a thicker wire.
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Re: ORD Bot Hadron Inquiries - Help Appreciated

Postby JLG » Tue Aug 27, 2013 3:23 pm

Sorry guys, another question. While attempting to find local sources for everything, I came across these:

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.ca/viewitem? ... 0872387181

These are from RepRapDiscount, and I like the idea of magnetically activate switches, seems like there would be less wear and tear. But I think I completely overlooked the mounting of limit switches in general, how do they usually get mounted? And how would I go about mounting these? I did see that somebody has STLs for them, only problem is I don't have a 3D printer to print mounts for my 3D printer, talk about the chicken and the egg! lol
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Re: ORD Bot Hadron Inquiries - Help Appreciated

Postby cvoinescu » Tue Aug 27, 2013 3:33 pm

You can use your printer without limit switches. They've very useful and convenient to have, but I've used my printer without them for quite a while. The only annoying part is having to set the Z height at the beginning of each print, but it's not really that bad.
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Re: ORD Bot Hadron Inquiries - Help Appreciated

Postby JLG » Tue Aug 27, 2013 4:59 pm

cvoinescu wrote:You can use your printer without limit switches. They've very useful and convenient to have, but I've used my printer without them for quite a while. The only annoying part is having to set the Z height at the beginning of each print, but it's not really that bad.


I was under the impression that the end stops were there to make sure your printer didn't try to travel too far, and damage itself. I was even thinking about putting the "optional" extra 3 in just in case I mis-set a parameter and damages itself by traveling double the distance., or whatever else could happen.

So I would really feel better having them, I'm just inquiring about how I would go about mounting then. I'm not even sure what sort of mounting options (if any) are on the hadron, would I have to use spacers and drill holes?
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Re: ORD Bot Hadron Inquiries - Help Appreciated

Postby rickmellor » Tue Aug 27, 2013 5:51 pm

The holes are already drilled and sized for the subminiature switches. You can install them with zip ties or screws. They don't see much wear because once you have the thing tuned it'll just home the axes at the start of a print and not hit them again. I installed min & max stops on mine since I'm prone to doing stupid things.

The hall sensors may be a tad more precise, but if you use a precision endstop like this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:54154 you'll be in great shape (use the default t-nut stops to start until you get this printed). This one is really nice because it moves the screw over the switch plunger rather than using the lever, which reduces play.
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