New Member with Questions

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New Member with Questions

Postby oldrayj » Sat Sep 28, 2013 11:35 am

I’m oldrayj, a retired engineer that still likes to tinker with gadgets and new technology. I just purchased a mechanical kit from reprap discount and a Ramps 1.4 set-up from Gadgets3D. Assembly of the mechanical kit was relatively easy. For other newbies like me, I found this link to be useful:
http://www.robotronics.com.au/web/tutorials

Also this forum has been very informative. In particular, I have been following the “Help Appreciated” link:
viewtopic.php?f=33&t=2217

The following link lead to the right solution for mounting reprap end stops:
viewtopic.php?f=33&t=2078

From what I’ve read, it looks like the MakerGeeks.com Wade Extruder Reloaded full kit would be the best option for me. Also I will probably opt for the MK2B heated bed since it can be set up for either 12 or 24 volts. It looks like 14 gauge silicone wire would be a good option for connecting the heated bed.

Although I’ve found a lot of info, I’m still fuzzy on a few issues. The main one is using 24 volts vice 12 volts. I have been running my Shapeoko CNC machine, which is equipped with Pololu drivers and NEMA 17 motors, at 24 volts with no issues.

I understand that diode D1 must be removed or disconnected before 24 volts can be applied to the 5 amp bus. Is it correct that this in turn requires that you separately power the Ardunio either through USB or another source? Also, with D1 gone and separate power to the Ardunio, is still possible to use a smart LCD to control the machine?

I have read about some concerns about the adequacy of installed capacitors and fuses with 24 volts. Any worries here or additional mods needed?

How about using 12 volt fans? Can they be separately powered but still controlled by the shield and associated software and firmware?

Finally, I have a good supply of ordinary plate glass. Are there any serious concerns about using plate glass versus heat resistant glass?

Your thoughts and comments will be appreciated. Thanks.
oldrayj
 
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Joined: Tue Sep 24, 2013 10:12 pm

Re: New Member with Questions

Postby jammer » Sat Oct 12, 2013 7:48 am

Just a comment on the wade's reloaded kit from maker geeks. I ordered two of the reloaded plastic only kit and asked him if I could purchase the hardware for them as well. He said no problem on the nut, bolts and springs but that he doesn't use the 8mm rod that the middle bearing rides on. He said he just snaps the bearing in and he didn't think the rod was needed. So I don't think that his full reloaded kits would have them. Since I am still building mine I don't know if this would affect anything or not. I am in the process of trying to find the right length rod to be safe. Haven't found one yet.


Great guy to do business with though. Really satisfied with the customer service.

Just food for thought.
jammer
 
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Joined: Fri Sep 13, 2013 3:50 am

Re: New Member with Questions

Postby Dane » Sun Oct 13, 2013 10:56 am

oldrayj wrote:I’m oldrayj, a retired engineer that still likes to tinker with gadgets and new technology. I just purchased a mechanical kit from reprap discount and a Ramps 1.4 set-up from Gadgets3D. Assembly of the mechanical kit was relatively easy. For other newbies like me, I found this link to be useful:
http://www.robotronics.com.au/web/tutorials


I'm glad you found my website useful, its still a work in progress and I guess will always be :)

Although I’ve found a lot of info, I’m still fuzzy on a few issues. The main one is using 24 volts vice 12 volts. I have been running my Shapeoko CNC machine, which is equipped with Pololu drivers and NEMA 17 motors, at 24 volts with no issues.


There are a lot of arguments for and against 12V and 24V. If you search the forums you will find many discussions. I looked at going to 24V but for me there wasn't enough "advantage" over 12V to make it worth while. 12V works, many accessories tend to be 12V eg. fans and lights. I would suggest that unless you have a real need or desire to go 24V I would just stick with 12V.
Having said that building your own 3D printer is all about experimentation and trying new things to see how well they work, so if the idea appeals to you go for it and let us know how you went.

Finally, I have a good supply of ordinary plate glass. Are there any serious concerns about using plate glass versus heat resistant glass?


I just use plain glass but I also only print in PLA so the bed only get to 60 - 70 degrees C. I have had some issues with small pieces of glass flaking of when I have removed a print, but that glass print bed is three years old.
Others may be able to advise on the longevity of plain glass printing with ABS as the temperatures are higher.
Dane
 
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Joined: Thu Sep 05, 2013 1:53 pm

Re: New Member with Questions

Postby oldrayj » Sun Oct 13, 2013 11:33 am

Thanks jammer. McMaster-Carr as a good select of 8mm rods and studs of various lengths.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-rods/=owqunw

Thanks Dane. I'm going to start with 12 volts and see how it goes. I have a small glass kiln so I' going to try to anneal the plate glass which should help. At this point, I plan on primarily using ABS for structural parts.
oldrayj
 
Posts: 13
Joined: Tue Sep 24, 2013 10:12 pm


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