Wade's Reloaded questions

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Re: Wade's Reloaded questions (E3D J-mount problem solved!)

Postby jammer » Sun Nov 17, 2013 6:30 am

MakerGeeks wrote:Hey Troy, wanted to see what sort of JHEAD that was you are using... these Wade Reloaded are built to be used with a typical JHEAD hotend like this:
j-head-iv-clone-illustraion-2.jpg


Wondering if maybe that type of hotend you are using is a different setup than the regular JHEAD that most of the RepRap style printers are using??

Hope we can help you get this worked out and you up and printing!!

Joshua b Smith
http://www.makergeeks.com
"Make Happy @ MakerGeeks.com"


Hi Joshua,

Glad to see you one here! I have the E3D hotend. I can measure it tomorrow with my calipers and send you a drawing if that might help. I think the only issue is the diameter of the grove where the screws hold the hotend to the extruder. Not sure about other J-Mount hotend measurements but here is a link to the specs for the J-Mount nozzle holder on the RepRap site that shows the diameter of the groove should be 12mm.

http://reprap.org/wiki/File:Jhn_nozzle_holder_v1.jpg

Not sure which thingivers reloaded design you are using but maybe it had been modified at some point. Not sure there since I haven't printed any or for that matter ever seen any other reloaded extruders in person to be able to measure the distance between the screws. Maybe most of the J-Mount hot ends have a smaller diameter groove and that is why they work. Maybe all of the thingiverse reloaded extruders are setup for smaller diameter J-Mount hotends.

I spent some time with my drill press and a small drill bit to make the holes slightly oblong so I can get the screws in to hold the hotend. It is very tight but I think that will be a good thing.

Update: I think I have figured out the issue with all metal E3D hot ends and heatsink. I owe Joshua an apology for not figuring this out before now. The issue should be the same for any all-metal hotend J-Mounts used with a Wade Reloaded extruder. I found out from dougc314 that the distance between the screws is 10.7mm. In a non-metal J-Mount, the screws actually dig in slightly to the J-Mount on the hotend and keeps everything very tight. I think the real issue is that the all-metal hotends do not allow the screw to dig in the groove and thus prevents the screws from being inserted completely. Someone who is good with OPENSCAD needs to modify the distance between the J-mount screws slightly to allow an all-metal hotend to be used without having to drill out the existing holes in the Reloaded designs. Here is a link to a Reloaded extruder that looks like it has some very good modifications and the person who posted it also posted the scad files. He also has two different versions (one for 1.75mm and one for 3mm filaments with a tapered filament entry).

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:20413

I think I will print one out if someone is able to modify the distance between the holes.

Sorry again for the confusion. My Bad!! :?

For everyone else, Joshua at MakerGeeks has been great to work with and I will continue to buy from.
jammer
 
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Re: Wade's Reloaded questions

Postby cvoinescu » Mon Nov 18, 2013 12:06 pm

MakerGeeks wrote:Hey Troy, wanted to see what sort of JHEAD that was you are using... these Wade Reloaded are built to be used with a typical JHEAD hotend like this:
j-head-iv-clone-illustraion-2.jpg

Wondering if maybe that type of hotend you are using is a different setup than the regular JHEAD that most of the RepRap style printers are using??


That's not a typical J-Head hot-end, that's a crappy clone. The 1.75 mm "adapter" (a simple PTFE tube not retained in any way) is particularly bad. Please buy your J-Head from hotends.com or an authorized distributor. Not only will your money go to its creator, but you will also have an excellent hot-end, rather than a mediocre one.
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Re: Wade's Reloaded questions

Postby jammer » Wed Dec 25, 2013 8:04 am

My latest issue is that I am having a problem with my extruder/hotend. Before each print I raise the Z-axis ~ 60mm and extrude to make sure that the filament path is good to go and everything is working properly. Here in the last week I noticed that if I pay close attention to the rate of the filament coming out of the hotend, it varies a lot. It will extrude fine for 4 or seconds and the almost come to a stop and then start extruding like gang busters again. You can imagine what that is doing to my prints. There are quite a few voids and strings for the infix. I thought it might be some ABS I bought when I ordered the machine. The filament was sold as 1.75mm but when I measured it with the micrometer it measured 1.63mm and it has patches on the filament where it is not smooth, it seems a little rough to the touch.

I ended up buying some ABS from protoparadigm and used that last night. Results were the same. I have noticed that the large gear on my wade's reloaded extruder seems to not change from when it is extruding properly vs when the melted plastic has almost come to a stop. Consequently, the hobbed bolt is chewing up the filament and getting the grooves on the bolt filled up with filament. I clean the bolt and am careful to remove any ABS particles from the extruder assembly. I just took the extruder/hotend apart and am soaking the nozzle is Acetone for the next few days.

The other issue and I am sure it is related or even causing the above issue is that I am having a problem with my thermister on my hotend. I followed the mounting instructions perfectly when initially installing everything and the first week of calibrating came out what looked to be fine. Once I received my Thermal paste from Omega I decided to take the thermister out and fill the hole with the paste and then re-insert the thermister. Ever since then it seems like my measured temp is more than 75 degrees higher than it really is (as measure with my ThermaPen). As a result I have had to crank the desired temp to crazy levels.

As I have stated above I decided to start over and rebuild the entire hotend/nozzle assembly. Any other suggestions on what is going on?
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Re: Wade's Reloaded questions

Postby cvoinescu » Thu Dec 26, 2013 1:08 am

If your thermistor registers higher than true temperature, it means it has a lower resistance than it should. Maybe your thermal paste is conductive. Some high-performance stuff contains powdered metal, which could be shorting your thermistor and causing false readings.
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Re: Wade's Reloaded questions

Postby jammer » Fri Dec 27, 2013 1:19 am

cvoinescu wrote:If your thermistor registers higher than true temperature, it means it has a lower resistance than it should. Maybe your thermal paste is conductive. Some high-performance stuff contains powdered metal, which could be shorting your thermistor and causing false readings.



That is what I figured although I am using the same paste for my bed thermister but I don't think it is touching the leads, just the tip of the thermister. I went ahead and disassembled the hotend and have cleaned the thermister hole and the thermister removing all of the paste. I will be putting everything back together using just the kapton tape and see how it works.
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Re: Wade's Reloaded questions

Postby cvoinescu » Fri Dec 27, 2013 3:59 am

Test the thermistor at room temperature first. Also, make sure you have the right type of thermistor in the firmware -- hotends.com changed the termistor from one mady by EPCOS (type 1 in Marlin) to another kind, about a year ago. To mark the change, the hot end with the original thermistor was called J-Head Mk V-B, and the new one is Mk V-BV. Did you use the same thermistor when adding the thermal paste? Any changes to the firmware?
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Re: Wade's Reloaded questions

Postby jammer » Fri Dec 27, 2013 5:27 am

cvoinescu wrote:Test the thermistor at room temperature first. Also, make sure you have the right type of thermistor in the firmware -- hotends.com changed the termistor from one mady by EPCOS (type 1 in Marlin) to another kind, about a year ago. To mark the change, the hot end with the original thermistor was called J-Head Mk V-B, and the new one is Mk V-BV. Did you use the same thermistor when adding the thermal paste? Any changes to the firmware?



I actually ended up using one of the three thermistors I received with my Helios heated bed from Panucatt. The thermistors from Panucatt had insulated leads whereas the one from E3D that came with my hotend didn't have insulated leads. I set both thermistor types to type 1 in the firmware. On the Panucatt site, it describes them as EPCOS 100k. I think that would be a type 1.
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Re: Wade's Reloaded questions

Postby jammer » Sat Jan 04, 2014 6:52 am

I am sorting out several issues: clogged nozzle, hotend thermister not measuring the temperature correctly, filament being extruded at an inconsistent rate. I have cleaned out the nozzle and have purchased a non contact IR temp gun to measure the hotend temp. I think the inconsistent feed rate was related to the nozzle being partially clogged and also the hotend temp being way off.

The one question I haven't found an answer to is how to set the spring loaded tension on the Wade's reloaded extruder. Is there any guide or advice for how loose or tight to set the spring loaded screws that apply pressure to the idler. Any ideas?
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Re: Wade's Reloaded questions

Postby cvoinescu » Sat Jan 04, 2014 1:21 pm

I set mine as tight as it goes. The designs vary (M3 or M4 screws of different lengths, different springs, some designs have more room for the screws to go in, and if the springs are too short you can add washers, and so on) so what works for me may not work for you. It also depends on how well your hobbed bolt is made -- mine is only so-so.
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Re: Wade's Reloaded questions

Postby jammer » Sat Jan 04, 2014 8:15 pm

cvoinescu wrote:I set mine as tight as it goes. The designs vary (M3 or M4 screws of different lengths, different springs, some designs have more room for the screws to go in, and if the springs are too short you can add washers, and so on) so what works for me may not work for you. It also depends on how well your hobbed bolt is made -- mine is only so-so.


Thanks. I will give that a try. Not sure about my bobbed bolt since I don't have anything to compare it too. I have seen this (Hyena hobbled bolt) as a possible upgrade in the future:

http://www.voxelfactory.com/collections ... hobbed-bar

Since I have read that the E3D hotend is a fairly decent hotend it would be nice to get everything working like it should. After I get everything back together I will do another extruder calibration without the hotend attached.

Here is a print that I did before my nozzle clogged. I don't think it looks too bad:

AntiZwobble1.jpg


AntiZwobble2.jpg


AntiZwobble3.jpg


AntiZwobble4.jpg


AntiZwobble5.jpg
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