jb92563 wrote:Reprapdiscount's Ultimate Ramps package had a small 20mm bit of double sided aluminum heatsink tape with 6 little patches to apply to the heat sinks.
It works fine and is specifically for heat sinks so odd as it may seem, that is how they are attached.
I figured out how to hookup and use the fan on the D9 terminals and the electronics fan just connects to the Extruder heater D8 terminals and comes on when ever you are extruding.
The latest Marlin software was already configured for a 12v fan/2nd hotend heater in the software on the D9 terminals.
The only thing left to complete the printer is the glass plate.
I got to the bed leveling process and realized that there is no point to do that without the glass attached as the hotbed is not perfectly flat.
I also did another trial dry print and its all working nicely as expected. I should be printing this weekend.
Merf, you have a good point as the current mechanical endstops use GND and Signal. However the 3 pin mechanical endstops did use Vcc and were working and lighting the LED so I think I do have power on Vcc. I was thinking that perhaps theres something in software that the Halls need but I can not find any references to Hall endstops.
I opened a ticket with Reprapdiscount and they did not have any useful suggestions yet.
Honestly the only endstop that needs to be precise and repeatable is the Z-axis anyway so the mechanical endstops are fine in the x & Y axis.
In case you have not been to "Thingverse" yet there are dozens of improvements you can print. My particular power supply has a printable cover for the cable and adding a power switch for example.
Kapton tape? What do you need that for?
The only kapton tape I used was a small strip that was attached to the Hot bed and I used it to hold the hotbed temp sensor in place.
From what I have read when printing ABS you spray some hairspray or ABS disolved in acetone to help the print stay attached to the glass.
For PLA you lay down a layer of Blue Masking Painters Tape.
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