bdring wrote:Send me dimensions for your holes pattern so I am sure the platform matches. I suggest using the MK1/MK2 hole pattern on Hadron.
The Quantum uses the Thingamatic hole pattern, but that is somewhat limiting. I can add a second pattern for full width of Quantum.
According to the Eagle file posted on Thingiverse, the M3 holes are spaced 209 mm
frob wrote:So since i'm new to FDM style DIY 3D printers, please help me understand what is really needed here - for example:
What are the "ideal" temperature settings for the different materials available? PLA, ABS, other ?
Does this need to be adjusted for different situations like ambient temperature?
Are there any material that need more than 120 deg. C hot plate? any beyond 140 C ?
If there's really just one or 2 /3 obvious temperature settings, it could be self-regulating with a switch or digital 5V signal to pick which temp.
Do you mind if it's designed for 5V only or does it really need to be 12V ?
I'm thinking 5V x 30A from a cheap ATX PSU - that gives 150W cold to heat up fast -
then to to control the temperature,
maybe modulate the voltage by manipulating the PSU's remote voltage sense input -
That way you can even avoid the big mosfet - but it might be unnecessarily complicated.
Of course for anyone that just wants to use it as a heating element only that's fine too
It might be possible to make it work on either 5V or 12V with a clever arrangement of series or parallel heater circuits.
I was thinking of using right-angle 1/4" spade connectors (SMT style) for the power entry, does that work for you? or would you prefer to directly solder your own wires?
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