New ORD Bot Hadron build (ATI kit)

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Re: New ORD Bot Hadron build (ATI kit)

Postby fulg » Wed Sep 30, 2015 12:28 am

PrintThings wrote:You'll have to let me know how those acme rods work out for you. Just going to print new anti-wobble parts and press in the brass nut?

That's the plan. How well I execute it is anyone's guess... But now that the bed leveling issue is sorted out, I am starting to build confidence in the machine, I can usually get successful prints, but there are still some spectacular failures when you don't catch them right away.

I have just ruined my PET tape layering hastily trying to remove a print, so I'm going to resist the urge to replace it and print straight to glass from now on. That was a lot sooner than I expected. I only did one print since and there was no appreciable difference in bed adhesion for PLA (as long as I use hairspray).

I'm already using 24V for the entire machine including the hotbed, I didn't really time it but it takes about two minutes to reach 60C (oddly enough I didn't notice a heating speed difference between 12V and 24V on the heatbed, I'll have to look into that). The hotend takes under 10 seconds to go from 20 to 200C.

Cheers,
Ben.
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Re: New ORD Bot Hadron build (ATI kit)

Postby cvoinescu » Wed Sep 30, 2015 1:09 am

I think PrintThings is using a 12 V hotbed at 24 V (well, 19.5 V). A 24 V hotbed at 24 V will work almost the same as a 12 V one at 12 V: losses on wiring are smaller, but, other than that, they heat up the same.
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Re: New ORD Bot Hadron build (ATI kit)

Postby fulg » Tue Nov 10, 2015 12:55 am

I have remixed fma's anti-wobble bracket as a leadscrew mount for my ACME rods, and it is working perfectly. In the end the threaded rods that came with the ATI kit were too bent to give reliable prints. You can find it here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1121898. I also ditched the classic flexible aluminum coupler and changed it with a non-flexible, self-centering design (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:602481). The top of the rod is kept in place with the bracket that flurin made (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:52388), but I'll have to redesign it as it reduces the printable Z height by a fair amount (collides with the Zmax endstop).

This was a fabulous upgrade, increasing the quality of my prints considerably. As an added bonus, the increased pitch from the ACME rods also reduced the speed of the Z motors a lot, which eliminated any stepper noise from the Z-axis (since the steppers are turning slower).

These days I am spending most of my time cleaning up the wiring, as I was still running a hodge-podge of wires until now. Replacing it with a flexible showerhose has improved the look quite a bit (and the reliability as well I'm sure!). Unfortunately any major improvements such has these have to be carefully planned, as I have no way to print parts halfway through an upgrade. I may have to get a Delta built after all :)

Cheers,
Ben.

IMG_0012.JPG
Fresh off the print!

IMG_0013.JPG
Installed.

IMG_0017.JPG
The self-centering axis coupler. Printed in PETG (HDGlass).
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