Dibloff's Build Log

Topics Related to the ORD Bot Printer

Re: Dibloff's Build Log

Postby Medel » Thu Nov 15, 2012 2:26 pm

Standard is bed-axis is Y, gantry carriage movement is X, up/down (screw axis) is Z. 0,0,0 is bed away from user, carriage to the left, and nozzle down (as close to print bed as intended, usually a piece of paper thickness above)
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Re: Dibloff's Build Log

Postby dibloff » Fri Nov 16, 2012 11:14 pm

Medel. Thanks for the info.
These are the last pieces of hardware I have to make for the Hadron. They are made out of angle aluminum 32x32 mm. The wall thickness is 1.55 mm. I made four brackets to hold the power supply.
2012_1116_Hadron 005.JPG

I have a 3D model for the PS if someone wants it. The small screws that clamp the bracket to the PS are M3. The PS has threaded holes in the locations where the brackets attach.
2012_1116_Hadron 007.JPG

The large ones I’ve use 10-32 – just because I ran out of the M5 weld nuts. I found these weld nuts in a local store, and the price was right (10c/piece). The 10-32 bolts cost ~$5 for 100 pieces. The discoloration on the weld nuts is from the grinding :) they do not fit into the makerslide, you need to add a 1.5x45 chamfer
2012_1116_Hadron 008.JPG

I’ve got the PS on eBay. These are sold to power led strips. It is rated as 12V, 20Amps. It measures 100x200x42 mm. When it’s installed I’ll have ~5 mm clearance underneath. The PS has a fan, and fortunately it blows the air out in the bottom.
2012_1116_Hadron 010.JPG

There is only one thing now, and it's safety related. I have to come up with a shiled for the PS. As you can see it's got bolt on terminals and theAC in is not really protected. I'm guessing these are made to be used inside a machine casing.
2012_1116_Hadron 006.JPG
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Re: Dibloff's Build Log

Postby StigOE » Sat Nov 17, 2012 1:05 pm

dibloff wrote:There is only one thing now, and it's safety related. I have to come up with a shiled for the PS. As you can see it's got bolt on terminals and theAC in is not really protected. I'm guessing these are made to be used inside a machine casing.

Since it's a 3D printer you're making, that should be the easiest thing in the world... :) When you have it up and running, just print a cover over the terminals. It can be mounted with the screw on the left and a screw through the hole on the righthand side. If you're afraid someone would poke their fingers in the terminals before it's printed, just use some tape in the meantime.
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Re: Dibloff's Build Log

Postby orcinus » Sun Nov 18, 2012 9:19 pm

Check the Mendel sources on github.
There should be a power supply cover somewhere in there, meant to be attached like this:

http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapPro_Mendel_power_supply

With a little bit of modifications (holes mostly), you should be able to print that and mount it on your PSU.
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Re: Dibloff's Build Log

Postby dibloff » Sun Nov 18, 2012 10:51 pm

Hi Orcinus. Thanks for the link. that cover looks fantastic. I had a similar idea.
I need to get this thing going now. I've got everything wired up. I connected 3 endstops. X-left, Y-back and Z-bottom. I beleive these are the next steps:
1. Hook up the Azteeg X3 to the computer via usb mini (do not power it up) and flash the drivers
2. Install the stepper jumpers. I got confused here. The azteeg support says all 3 of them have to be populated, while the surestepper manual says MS1 and MS2 has to be in "H" mode (MS3 is not connected).
3. Need to decide which software I'm going to use. Azteeg recommends 4 different ones (Marlin, Repetier, Sprinted and Pronterface). I'm kinda thinking about Replicator G. I already installed it and it looks user friendly. It has not preset profile for Hadron... I'm wondering why.

Still waiting for the filament, but It would be nice in the meantime to see this beauty dancing in my room.
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Re: Dibloff's Build Log

Postby orcinus » Sun Nov 18, 2012 11:13 pm

Re: 2 - i believe all three = 16x microstepping, two = 8x microstepping. Both work and there's been quite a few discussions re: which is better. Most people have it set to 16x.

Re: 3 - Marlin, Repetier and Sprinter are firmwares (i.e. go onto your Azteeg). Pronterface and ReplicatorG are computer-side clients. It comes down to personal preferences, but i believe Marlin + Pronterface are the most mainstream at the moment outside the Makerbot crowd.
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Re: Dibloff's Build Log

Postby dibloff » Mon Nov 19, 2012 3:55 am

Printer is Online!!!
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Re: Dibloff's Build Log

Postby geoffs » Mon Nov 19, 2012 5:37 am

Looking forward to your first print.
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Re: Dibloff's Build Log

Postby dibloff » Sat Nov 24, 2012 2:31 am

Status update. Spent 2 days googling for “3D printer coordinate system orientation” – “3D printer coordinate axes” – “3D printer coordinate axis” blablabla. Could not find a picture that shows the printer with the axes oriented and positive/negative axis direction. Then I found this page:
http://www.buildlog.net/wiki/doku.php?id=ord:software&
Basically it has everything I’ve been looking for. This is not the first time I found out that the information is out there, but because so many people post so much stuff it’s hard to select the vital information.
All motors are working. The firmware is uploaded. At least 50 times :) I'm using Marlin and Pronterface. I tweaked some settings like the DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT (87.884544, 87.884544, 1511.811, 93.36304).
The first two (X and Y) will be 200 (steps/revolution) * 16( microsteps/step) / 18 (teeth) /2.032 (MXL belt pitch) = 87.4890 … this gave me 99.73 mm on a 100 mm travel, so I tweaked it a little bit. This might change in the future. I’m working on a bracket which will hold my caliper, this way I can do 100 mm travel and see how precisely the axes are positioned.
My Z axis steps will be: 200 (steps/revolution) * 16( microsteps/step) / (25.4/12) = 1511.811 – this worked fine from the beginning.
There are two recommendations for the QU-BD extruder. I’ll go with the manufacturers recommendation.
I’m learning the software. The pronterface seems to be a bit on the simple side, but it’s a free software so what should I expect, right? I’m still thankful for all those people who contributed to it. One bad thing is it has no options to reorient the part on the build table. Or at least I have not found it yet.
I heated up the hot end and bed today for ABS. At 84 deg C the glass on the hot bed shattered. I guess they do not use borosilicate glass for flatbed scanners. I’ll have to order the glass online…
The end switches seems to be off. I need to figure out how to swap their position in the marlin.
The z axes look completely wobble free now, after 5-6 times disassembling and assembling them.
From the preliminary measurements I think my Hadron can only build a 200x200x150 part only. For some reason I thought the height can be 200 too.
So right now when I turn the machine on I can drive the axes to the positive direction only. They will not go to the negative direction. Not sure what causing this. If I disable the motors in the pronterface and manually move them all away to the end stop it’ll do the full 200 mm travel towards the positive direction of the axis. It would be nice to talk with someone of you guys live, maybe via skype - who is not building his first printer. I know I’ll fix this baby, but I definitely want to avoid the hot end plowing into the hot bed.
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Re: Dibloff's Build Log

Postby dibloff » Sat Nov 24, 2012 2:54 am

Almost forgot. I connected the extruder's fan to the 2nd hot end output on the Azteeg X3. Does anyone know how to turn it on?
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