Z-axis grinding, heated-bed, and extruder temp issues.

[Panopticon]

I've finally completed the build of the Ordbot, however I've come across a number of issues, some of them being firmware and mechanical.

1. I uploaded the Marlin Firmware to the RAMPS 1.4 w/Taurino power. I also followed the instructions posted in this video ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZgkR3ztAdw ) and inserted the modified code under the Configuration.H / Pins.H tab in arduiono @12:34 . After inserting the modified lines in the Marlin.pde I verified and can confirm that there were no errors before I uploaded/flashed the board.

2. I booted up the machine to home the axis using the SMART LCD control panel - X and Y axis worked fine but both the Z-axis began grinding and making terrible sounds. I ensured that the threaded rods were same height coming out the top of the X-axis carriage assembly and the z-axis couplers and tightly locked onto the bottom of the rods. I even oiled the rods a little. In some rare cases, during the Z-axis grinding I can manually turn the rods synchronously with my hands and then it will kick into smooth motion, I did this before I flash the board and after flashing the board I cannot even give it a boost manually. The Z-axis even acted up before I loaded the firmware, but now they are more problematic. Are they not getting enough juice? I read that I could bump up the voltage on the stepper driver using the trimpot on the chip? Also, would applying blue Loctite to the bottom of the rods help the grip?

3. Heated bed - only around 55% of the heated bed heats up half of it will get hot the other half does not heat?

4. I mounted a Printrbot Ubis ceramic hot-end to the SeeMeCNC extruder driver - I have it properly connected to the board but it will not heat up at all. The thermistor works, however the heater is not getting hot.

As an attempt to resolve the heating issues I bumped up the voltage on my PSU by turning the tripot all the way clock-wise till stop, then back about a 1/8th turn to get to 12.5 to 13v but to no avail, I'm still having heating issues.

One last note is that my wiring is a little messy in the back, I don't know if any subtleties from the wiring could effect the operation of the machine.

I've yet to drive the printer using Repetier host which I will try today.

[blah_59]

It's best to look at the problems individually, so:

2) Is the sound a "grinding" and the axis actually moves or the sound more of a clicking and the axis "shutters"? The only thing I can suggest for this, right now, is to triple check wiring and connections.

3) What kind of heated bed is it? Is it homemade or a professional/vendor sold one?

4) Three ideas:
Check configuration.h to make sure that the readings coming off the thermistor are above what is set for HEATER_0_MINTEMP (default is 5).
Triple check wiring connections to make sure nothing is loose.
Check in pins.h (in the right section (the one that covers type 33 and 34 boards)) to make sure HEATER_0_PIN has the setting for where your power is connected on the board.

I don't know of any subtleties in the wiring causing problems but miswired or loose wiring sure will cause problems.

[Panopticon]

It's best to look at the problems individually, so:

2) Is the sound a "grinding" and the axis actually moves or the sound more of a clicking and the axis "shutters"? The only thing I can suggest for this, right now, is to triple check wiring and connections.

3) What kind of heated bed is it? Is it homemade or a professional/vendor sold one?

4) Three ideas:
Check configuration.h to make sure that the readings coming off the thermistor are above what is set for HEATER_0_MINTEMP (default is 5).
Triple check wiring connections to make sure nothing is loose.
Check in pins.h (in the right section (the one that covers type 33 and 34 boards)) to make sure HEATER_0_PIN has the setting for where your power is connected on the board.

I don't know of any subtleties in the wiring causing problems but miswired or loose wiring sure will cause problems.

-I recorded a video to detail the issue: http://mitchpatrick.tumblr.com/post/53029023459
Its definitely a grinding and buzzing sound. As you can see the rods start moving for a few seconds then they lock up. The right rod continues to move briefly then stops, the left rod does the same but a little quicker than the right. Before homing I ensured the X-carriage was level by manual setting the rods.

-The heated-bed came with the RepRapDiscount ultimate electronics kit, it's a PCB MK2B Dual Power.

-I will re-check the Marlin.Pde and re-flash. What lines of code should I be using in the sections you've mentioned?

Thanks!

[cvoinescu]

That sounds like the motors losing steps then stalling, which is usually due to insufficient current. First, check that you can turn the screws relatively easily by hand with the power off. Then, adjust the current carefully, measuring the reference voltage, following instructions for the driver you have to convert reference voltage to motor current, and never exceeding the driver and motor current ratings. On some stepper driver boards (green Pololus powered from 5 V, but probably others too), the trimpot allows you to go well above the current that the chip supports, often resulting in the driver quite literally blowing its top.

[cozmicray]

Sounds like it's binding
take off z-leadscrew rods and make sure the X-Axis gantry runs smoothly up and down
- adjust the eccentric nuts so it moves smooth thru out entire up/down travel and does't wiggle at all.

Run the z-motors without leadscrew --- do they buzz at all? if so check phase wiring
and the voltage setting on the driver
see
Current limiting section of
http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1182

Good luck


-I recorded a video to detail the issue: http://mitchpatrick.tumblr.com/post/53029023459
Its definitely a grinding and buzzing sound. As you can see the rods start moving for a few seconds then they lock up. The right rod continues to move briefly then stops, the left rod does the same but a little quicker than the right. Before homing I ensured the X-carriage was level by manual setting the rods.

-The heated-bed came with the RepRapDiscount ultimate electronics kit, it's a PCB MK2B Dual Power.

-I will re-check the Marlin.Pde and re-flash. What lines of code should I be using in the sections you've mentioned?

[blah_59]

It looks like on the RAMPS 1.4 board it is the same as the Azteeg X3, so your power out's are going to be D8, D9 and D10 (labeled from bottom to top on the left side, upper half of the board). You need to look where you connected your wires for the hot end (8, 9 or 10) and then in pins.h (under motherboard section for 33 and 34) look at HEATER_0_PIN to make sure it has the right number (8, 9 or 10).

Also, did you verify that the temp readings you're getting off the thermistor are above 5c?

I'm not familiar with the PCB MK2B Dual Power but I don't suppose there's a chance that "Dual Power" means you need to give it power at two connections instead of being capable of dual voltages, does it?

[Panopticon]

-I poked around on the forum and was able to find a fix for the extruder and PCB heating issues. My initial problem was that upon booting up the board my extruder read 478c/000c and I got a MAXTEMP error / M999 immediately when I connected to the machine in RepHost. I changed some of parameters in the Marlin.pde and now when I boot my extruder reads 24c (even though I set the min temp at 5c in the configuration.h, oh well) I do not get any MAX_TEMP errors, and they both heat accordingly now. The dual power PCB actually needed a 3rd negative wire connected to the board and that resolved the heating issue, the PCB now heats evenly.

-The Z-axis rods/motors are still being a problem. Unfortunately I do not have a voltage meter and have limited knowledge about a lot of these electronics, so I took a ceramic screw driver and conservatively bumped up trim pot on the Z-axis stepper, this helped however my Z-axis rods still lock up, especially the left side. I will try removing the X-carriage tomorrow to see if the rods/motors can move freely without it, I bet they will. If thats the case then perhaps the wheels need adjusting on the X-axis carriage. Also attached to my rods are those printed Z-axis wobble stabilizers with M8 nuts, maybe they are causing issues as well? It seems mechanical at this point, and maybe it needs a little more juice on the trimpot?


-One new problem has surfaced, and very odd it is. My Z-axis mechanical end-stop is causing the RAMPS 1.4 and LCD to restart when activated, has anyone ever ran into this issue?